Cape Maclear (aka Chembe) is a small fishing village on Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi) in Malawi. It has one dirt road leading into (and straight out of) town. Along this road, there are a few hostels, some dive shops, a handful of vendors selling curios and fruit and a few bars. The pace of life here is . . . very . . . slow.
Mumbo Island is located about 4km offshore, inside Cape Maclear National Park, to the southern end of Lake Malawi.
The camp, which is set around a small cove on the eastern shore, comprises just six rooms. The island is renowned for its freshwater diving, kayaking and hammocks.
This old hippy hangout has been transformed into a very cool little lodge, but still retains the same laid back atmosphere.
Understand
Cape Maclear is a fishing village of about 10,000. The fishermen live in the center of the town, while either end of the village caters to tourists. In order to get from Steven's Guest House, for example, to Fat Monkeys, you must go through the town. This is not a problem - in fact, it's a great way to see how the average Malawian lives. It can just be a bit surprising when the road opens up, and you see a village.
Get in
From the bus station in Lilongwe, take a minibus to Monkey Bay for a few bucks. Flag down a pick-up that will take you the rest of the way into Cape Maclear, for just a few more dollars. (If you get stuck, you can always stay in Monkey Bay.) Although the trip is fairly short, you should budget the entire day.
Get around
The drive to Cape Maclear from Monkey Bay is through beautiful sunlit forest, preserved Lake Malawi National Park, which extends into the Lake, including nine islands, and offers shelter to some of the most spectacular fish in Africa.
Cape Maclear is very small. A short stroll will get you wherever you need to go.
See
· There is a beautiful beach to take in.
· The missionary graves on the north end of town. These are the final resting places of the first missionaries who died in 1875.
Eat
There are several small Malawian restaurants along the main road. If you want a great, reasonably priced seafood dinner ($2 or so for a big Chambo fillet), try any of them. A reservation is a good idea, not because the restaurant is likely to be crowded, but rather, so the owner knows he's going to have some business.
Be sure to eat some of the chips (french fries) the boys sell along the main road. They'll fry them fresh, and they make a great snack. If you order them regular, be prepared for "soggy" fries. If you want them crispy, order them "brown." For lunch, grab some chips, buy some bread and tomatoes, and have tomato sandwiches and chips.
Don't forget to arrange with one of the beach boys for an evening fish dinner on the beach. It's a lot of fun. Be careful, though -- they're likely to come back and ask for more money, for any number of reasons. Be firm but respectful.
For restaurants try:
· Gecko Lounge is the place to be of the moment - fresh fish from the lake, variety of Western dishes & daily specials.
· Fat Monkeys is an open-air restaurant with a cool beach-vibe on the south end of the village. They have Western-styled food (try the pizza) and sometimes play host to lively parties at night.
· Cape Mac Lodge & Froggies Restaurant, Cape Maclear, ☎ +265(0)999621279. Josiane and Roger, a French couple fell in love with Cape Maclear years ago. Since then they had a dream, to build a lodge and to retire in this peaceful Malawian fishing village. Today their dream has come true and… Cape Mac Lodge is now open to you! Next to Fat Monkeys Backpackers, you will find the finest food with the french touch. Please, do not hesitate to consult our website or send us an email : rogerl@africa-online.net contact us.
Sleep
· Domwe Island, 5kms off Cape Maclear (Take a boat from Kayak Africa's reception), ☎ =265 (0)99 994 2661. checkin: 10:00; checkout: 10:00. Domwe Island is an entirely off grid, sustainably run camp on a pristine island 5 kms off Cape Maclear. It is run by Kayak Africa and you can rent a kayak or boat to get there, camp or stay in a fully-equipped tent, self-cater or hire a chef. Great place for families and outdoor enthusiasts - or just those who love a quiet beach and a beautiful place. $25 - $50.
Budget
· Stevens' Guest House, ☎ +265 (0)997463054. Mr. Steven had the first accomodation in Cape Maclear when he opened Steven's Guest House. It has been taken over by new owners who upgraded all the rooms as well as bathrooms and renamed it Thumbi View lodge. Prices are still very reasonable with a restaurant, bar, en-suite rooms as well as dorms.
· Malambe Camp, ☎ +265 999 258959 (malambe_camp@btinternet.com). Malambe camp offers great budget accommodation right on the lake shore in the heart of Cape Maclear. Choose from a bamboo beach hut a stones throw from the lake to dorm accommodation or for those of you who just love the outdoors and carry your home on your back pitch your tent up under one or the many bright pink bouganvilla trees. Beach bar and an onsite restaurant or for those who wish to cook, why not make use of the large kitchen. Find us on the beach under the baobabs.
Mid-range
Fat Monkeys, ☎ +265 (0) 1599133 (FatMonkeys@africa-online.net). There are various types of accommodation available: standard double rooms, en-suite double rooms, lake view family chalets and camping. Rates start at 20 U$D per room per night; 5U$D for camping. Situated on the beach with an excellent bar, very friendly staff and good cheap food. Activities such as boat trips, kayaking and scuba diving can be arranged by Fat Monkeys (or by the beach boys). Fat Monkeys has long been popular with backpackers. FatMonkeys is a Skyband wireless Internet hotspot.
· Tuckaways, ☎ +265 (0)993405681 (tuckawaysmw@gmail.com). A family room is also available and tucked back in the garden (not lake side). All rooms at the moment share public toilets and showers (mens and ladies) - the bathrooms are very nice, big and clean. Kayaks, boat trips, community project involvement are all available from recpetion. Offers 5 beautiful chalets overlooking Lake Malawi $50/chalet. Each chalet sleeps 2 people and has a private verandah. Turn down service each evening and morning tea/coffee service to your verandah every morning offers a nice personal touch..
· Gecko Lounge, ☎ +265 (0)9787322 (bookgeckolounge@gmail.com). Gecko Lounge has a lively bar & quality restaurant as well as WIFI internet access & laptop hire, book exchange, speedboat, hammocks, braii areas. Diving can be organised from here (as long as people have their open water PADI etc) and there are Kayaks and snorkel Gear for hire as well. Family sized, self contained en-suite lakeside Chalets $80 ($40pp) double & then can sleep a further two people in the bunk bed for $10 pp & there are two further Double rooms with en-suite called Baobab & Acacia @$60 per room plus there is $10pp per night for an en-suite 11 bed dorm as well.
· Cape Mac Lodge, ☎ 09621279 (rogerl@africa-online.net), [11]. Situated next to Fat Monkeys is this lovely new establishment offering elegantly decorated rooms (with lofts) for singles, couples or families. Some of the things that set this place apart from the others is 1) the French cuizine (truly looked after by a real, live French woman with years of experience in Africa) and 2) a small inground pool just perfect for lounging with a drink in your hand from the well stocked bar and restaurant. Book through Jambo Africa [12] Rate: includes dinner, bed and breakfast $67.50 pppn (twin/double), $91.50 pppn (single).
· Chembe Eagles Nest, ☎ +265 995 475 688 or +265 999 966 507 (email: enquiries@chembenest.com) (fax: +265 9960-707), [13]. Accommodation in chalets shaded by lush gardens, right on Cape Maclear's only private beach. Classy meals and lovely bar. Sailing, sundowner cruises and other water activities available. Secluded lake-side camping also offered. From $60 - 75/night.
· Mgoza Lodge, ☎ +265 995-632105 (info@mgozalodge.com), [14]. A casual lodge with chalets with lake views and a friendly vibe. Watersports equipment, kayaks and boat trips are available nearby. Around $60/night.
Splurge
· Danforth Yachting, ☎ +265 996-0077 (fax: +265 996-0707). Around $150/night including activities.
· Mumbo Island, Cape Maclear (Take A boat from Kayak Africa's reception at Cape Maclear), ☎ +265 (0)99 994 2661, [15]. checkin: 10AM; checkout: 10AM.Run on strict eco principles and is entirely off grid, it has only 7 tents, which are set into the bush on the tiny heart-shaped uninhabited islet attached to the island by a wooden bridge. Waters around the island are bilharzia-free and perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Mumbo is fully catered. $275.
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