Ko Samet travel guide, Thailand

As the closest major island to Bangkok, Ko Samet is one of the most popular places in Thailand to watch teal water caress feathery white sand shores. It's not the kingdom's most picturesque, enchanting or cleanest island, but Samet consistently draws droves of travellers seeking a quick, easy getaway from the Thai capital.

One of the very first Thai islands to surface on the foreign traveller radar back in the 1970s, Samet's old days of crashing in hammocks next to beach campfires are long gone. The island now competes with Hua Hin as the weekend beach playground of choice for middle to upper class Thais from Bangkok. This means better Thai food than on some islands, though it also results in bars and resorts that chiefly aim to satisfy middle- to high-end Thai tastes. On weekends, big groups of Thais zoom by on ATVs before congregating around bottles of scotch in the beachside bars (hopefully after returning the ATVs).

The island is famous among Thais as the setting for a story by their most beloved poet, Sunthorn Phu, who was a native of Rayong province. The main character, Phra Arpaimanee, travels with his flute around Thailand until he's captured by a ravenous giantess. After watching her chomp a buffalo's head off, he manages to escape by lulling her to sleep with his entrancing flute music. He then uses his magical flute to win over the heart of a beautiful mermaid. The pair marry and live happily ever after with a son, Tusakorn, who incidentally has the body of a horse and head of a dragon. An imposing statue of the giantess meets all who arrive at Nadan pier, and at the far southern end of Haad Sai Kaew, a photo next to decaying statues of Phra Arpaimanee and the mermaid is obligatory for all Thai visitors.

Given that it's one of Thailand's more developed islands, many are surprised to learn that Ko Samet is part of Khao Laem Ya Ko Samet National Park, which also encompasses Khao Laem Ya on the mainland along with various smaller islands. The only way you'd know you're in a national park is via the flabbergasting 200 baht entry fee. Tacky resorts have gobbled up every inch of the most popular beaches, ditches along the main road look like small landfills, and plastic is regularly burned in the village. With no national park-maintained hiking trails, campgrounds or other facilities to speak of, you have to wonder where all of those pricey entry fees end up. We feel that Ko Samet makes a mockery of the Thai Department of National Parks.

Adding to this not-so-environmentally-conscious image, in July of 2013, 50,000 litres of crude oil gushed into the sea near Samet after a pipeline owned by PTT Global Chemical ruptured. The golden sand of Ao Phrao on Samet's west coast was painted a stinking black by the oil slick, forcing the closure of Ao Phrao's resorts and causing serious damage to the area's already fragile marine life. By September of the same year, Ao Phrao had rebounded surprisingly quickly and only a faint smell of oil remained.

Locals informed us in late 2013 that major plans are underway to widen the island's main road, replacing hastily thrown up structures with "contemporary" two-storey concrete buildings. This is potentially a positive development as it might make way for a streamlined trash removal system, which Samet appears to be in desperate need of. On the other hand, it could just result in more traffic and overpriced hotels. Some stretches of the main road that winds down Samet's long southern tail had already been sealed with concrete during our most recent visit, and we would be surprised if the length of the road from the village down to Ao Thian isn't fully paved by 2015.

Despite Samet's considerable environmental issues, it remains exceedingly popular with Thais, expats and foreign travellers. You can still find idyllic beaches in the sheltered southern bays of Ao Tubtim, Ao Nuan and Ao Wai, and even the most developed beaches still manage to be beautiful -- if you can ignore the jetskis, speedboats and bars. While Samet sees its share of rain from June to October, it's a solid alternative to the far southern Thai islands that tend to partially close up shop when they're hit by more intense monsoon storms at this time of year. Virtually every place to stay and eat is open for business year-round on Ko Samet.

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Ko Lanta travel guide, Thailand

Lanta. The word alone conjures daydreams of lazing in a hammock, soothed by tepid waves and refreshed by the juice of coconuts that collect on the sand. The exact meaning is unknown, but the island's old Malay name of Pulao Satak translates as "Long Beach Island". Four splendid stretches of powder-white sand span several kilometres each on Ko Lanta, with many more secluded beaches just waiting to be lounged upon.

First "discovered" by Scandinavian backpackers in the 1980s, this long and slender Andaman Sea island stayed largely hidden in the shadows of Ko Phi Phi and Phuket for many years. As more travellers moaned about crowded beaches and overpriced bungalows on these, word about Lanta's near-empty beaches spread. By the early 2000s, it had become a choice destination for families, honeymooners, backpackers and anyone looking for a thriving yoga scene.

In addition to the vast beaches, Lanta boasts inland mountains shrouded in old-growth jungle, a protected mangrove forest and a pristine national park. If there's one activity that should get you out of that hammock, it's a walk to the park's antiquated lighthouse perched atop a dramatic white-rock cliff that affords some of the most dazzling views you'll find anywhere in Thailand.

Lanta's traditional Urak Lawoi (nomadic sea dweller) and Chinese-Malay Muslim communities add an intriguing splash of culture to that beach holiday. While the west coast has been taken over by tourism, the east is home to shrimp farms, fishing villages and a historic Old Town where Chinese lanterns and wooden bird cages hang from century-old teakwood houses.

Though Ko Lanta has retained much of its charm and even a few undeveloped patches of beachfront, it now shows up loud and clear on the mainstream travel radar. The northwest has become a bustling tourist centre, complete with neon signs, tattoo parlours and tailor shops. The main road here is something of a disaster, with litter-strewn ditches and countless ugly, ill-planned concrete developments that often stand abandoned.

You'll now find two muay Thai stadiums, three cooking schools, snake shows, elephant camps, an international language school and even a few seedy bars that would have been unthinkable to the conservative locals when 24-hour electricity arrived in the late '90s. One life-long islander complained that the tourism industry has brought an influx of greed while threatening the island's traditional ways of life. But the worst could be yet to come.

At time of writing, plans are being drawn up to erect an 800 megawatt coal-fueled power plant on the mainland near Ko Lanta, with a coal dock slated for the island itself. If this becomes a reality, coal barges will lurch straight through the national park, spewing harmful carcinogens into the air and water, killing marine life and ruining those breathtaking sea views. If a coal plant on the Krabi coast and coal dock on Lanta sounds as crazy to you as it does to us, please sign the AVAAZ petition and visit the "Say No to Krabi Coal Power Plant" web page.

For now, the sheer size of Lanta's "big four" beaches -- Khlong Dao, Phra Ae, Khlong Khong and Khlong Nin -- leave plenty of breathing room, even during peak season. Far southern beaches like Ao Kantiang retain a remote and romantic atmosphere. Though it's changing fast, Ko Lanta remains a fantastic choice for everyone from families to hippies to high-end luxury travellers.

Orientation
For travellers, the term "Ko Lanta" specifically refers to Ko Lanta Yai ("Big Ko Lanta"), as opposed to Ko Lanta Noi ("Little Ko Lanta"), with the latter being a quiet rural island that sits between Lanta Yai and the mainland. The Ko Lanta archipelago includes dozens of smaller islands that can be visited as day trips. All of them are part of Mu Ko Lanta National Park.

At 25 km long and five km wide, "Big Ko Lanta" lives up to its name. It stretches from northwest to southeast in a manner that will remind North Americans of a miniature Florida, minus the panhandle. Most of the west coast is lined with beaches that can feel more like one endless stretch of sand broken up by a few rock cliffs.

From a traveller's perspective, Ko Lanta Yai can be loosely divided into three sub sections:

The northwest is the most popular and busy part of the island, home to the mostly midrange accommodation on Haad Khlong Dao, the vast Haad Phra Ae (aka Long Beach) and its diverse mix of backpacker to luxury accommodation, and the hippie-party scene of Haad Khlong Khong, with a couple of smaller beaches peppered in between. Connected by a relatively wide paved road, the northwest is a good choice for those keen on meeting people and sticking close to nightlife and conveniences, but some might find it too touristy or lacking charm.

South of Khlong Khong, a narrower paved side road continues into the southwest. This section includes the beautiful and conveniently located Haad Khlong Nin, with the more remote Ao Kantiang, Haad Khlong Jak and Ao Mai Pai, along with a handful of smaller beaches and the national park, located further south. This general area is a fine fit for those seeking a secluded or romantic getaway. It reminds us of parts of Bali thanks to the many yoga-enthusiasts, Balinese-style villas and the narrow paved road that winds along the sea and up over dense green hills.

Three paved roads provide cross-island access to the third sub section, which covers everything on Lanta's picturesque but beach-less east coast. Here you'll find the "mangrove village" of Thung Yee Pheng to the north, the historic Lanta Old Town in the centre, and an Urak Lawoi village known as Sang Kha-U further south. While some excellent guesthouses and homestays are found in these areas, most choose to stay on the west coast and hit the east as a day trip.

No matter where you choose to stay, you will almost certainly arrive in Baan Saladan at Ko Lanta's northernmost point. This one-time fishing village has become a full-scale tourist town that brims with ATMs and bank branches, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, travel offices, convenience stores and shopping plazas. Along with a few dirt-cheap guesthouses, some of the island's best and cheapest food can be scored here.

Lanta's food scene is quite good on the whole, though it's worth travelling from beach to beach as each area has its highlights. The best Italian is in Khlong Nin; Haad Phra Ae is the place for Indian and Mexican; Saladan has the cheapest (and possibly best) seafood; Khlong Khong is the only option for Greek; and Khlong Dao boasts some of the finest bakeries. Though you'll find exceptions, the cheapest and most authentic Thai is usually found in roadside eateries rather than resorts.

Not usually thought of as a party destination, Lanta's nightlife scene has steadily grown over the years. You'll now find thumping live music venues, sports bars, gay nights and no shortage of fire-spinning shows at chilled-out reggae bars along the beaches. For details on the latest parties and events, check out facebook.com/groups/lanta.

A roving local market sets up on different parts of the island depending on the day and can be fun for a poke through the cheap clothes and food stalls. Apart from the Sunday morning market that takes place from 8:00 to 11:00 in the Old Town, the markets typically runs from around 16:00 to 21:00. The schedule is as follows:

Sunday: Morning market in the Old Town central square
Monday: Off the main road in southern Haad Khlong Dao
Tuesday: Off the southernmost cross-island road, just east of Khlong Nin
Wednesday: Near the car ferry in Baan Saladan
Thursday: Off the main road between Haad Phra Ae and Khlong Khong
Friday: Again off the southernmost cross-island road, just east of Khlong Nin
Saturday: Off the main road in northern Haad Khlong Dao

ATMs, convenience stores, internet cafes and petrol stands are found in all of the island's major beaches and towns, and any guesthouse or resort can help travellers arrange onward transport and tours.

For medical emergencies, your best bet is Siam International Clinic (T: (075) 684 747), which is located along the main drag in southern Haad Phra Ae and has a medical speedboat shuttle for emergency transfers to the mainland. Haad Phra Ae is also home to the smaller Dr Salarin Clinic, while Saladan has a local clinic. Both of these have English speaking staff and should be fine for minor scrapes. Just south of the Old Town, the main Ko Lanta Hospital offers a 24-hour emergency centre.

The main police station is located off the east-coast road in the Old Town, with tourist police boxes found in most of Lanta's major centres. The Post Office is located along the main road in northern Haad Phra Ae and is easy to spot. The closest immigration office is in Krabi town.

Ko Lanta is a seasonal destination. The best times to visit are November 1 to mid December and February to the end of March, when there's mostly sunshine to go with thinner crowds and slightly cheaper room rates than you'll find during peak season from mid December through January. Many resorts stay open year round, but the island is very quiet during the monsoon season from May to October, with July to September being especially wet.

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Ko Chang travel guide, Thailand

Sometimes called the "Beast of the East" thanks to its sheer mass and location in the eastern Gulf of Thailand near Cambodia, Ko Chang might just be the quintessential Thai island destination. From breathtaking mountains to idyllic beaches, hippy hangouts to salubrious resorts, and traditional fishing villages to neon nightlife, "Elephant Island" truly has something for everyone.

Some say that Ko Chang's name derives from its shape on a map that somewhat resembles the head of an elephant. Others claim it's due to the vast inland mountains that, apparently, resemble an elephant lying down. But the moniker most likely comes from a local legend that tells of a certain rebellious domesticated elephant (the animals are not indigenous to Ko Chang) whose three baby elephants drowned while trying to accompany her on a long swim to the mainland. As the legend has it, the babies transformed into three rocks off the northern coast that can still be seen today.

Whatever the true origins of the name, Ko Chang is most certainly a beast -- Phuket and Ko Samui are the only Thai islands that are bigger. Most of its 217 square kilometres remains unspoiled inland rainforest. The tallest of eight notable waterfalls, Khlong Neung, cascades down a 120-metre-high cliff. The island's highest peak, Khao Salak Phet, stands imposingly at 744 metres tall. Mongooses and macaques roam the jungle among an abundance of birds, including the majestic great hornbill, reptiles and other wildlife. Dolphins can sometimes be spotted off the southeast coast.

Despite its formidable rainforest, Ko Chang is most certainly a developed island. Long gone are the days when intrepid backpackers crashed on empty beaches. Today, Ko Chang is home to hundreds of places to stay, with new developments popping up every month. Every inch of Haad Sai Khao (White Sand Beach) has been filled in with concrete hotel blocks, convenience stores, tacky bars and tourist trinket shops, with Khlong Prao and Kai Bae gradually following suit.

Even so, Ko Chang has a long way to go before reaching the frenzied levels of development found on its larger cousin, Phuket. Its vast terrain and the fact that it can only be reached by car ferry have seemingly kept the building projects from getting too out of hand. On the quiet east coast, traditional fishing life continues in the tiny villages of Dan Mai, Salak Khok and Salak Phet, and a 10-minute walk from some of the western beaches brings you to picturesque fields of pomelo, banana and rubber trees.

First settled by Chinese traders and Thai and Khmer fishermen, Ko Chang was the focal point of two tragic historical events. The first, which is glorified by Thais, was the sinking of a Thai warship, the Thonburi, in Salak Phet Bay during a 1941 battle with French naval forces. The second, which most Thais never talk about, were the supposedly Thai government-sanctioned sinkings of rickety vessels carrying Vietnamese refugees, or "boat people", in the 1980s. The island remained quiet into the ‘90s when large-scale tourism finally took hold.

Ko Chang's almost-white sand beaches don't quite achieve the sparkle of some of the more spectacular islands down south, but they're no slouch either. While Haad Sai Khao is the largest and widest stretch of sand, the clearest water and most irresistibly "tropical" settings can be found further south in places like Lonely Beach and Bang Bao.

Off the sand, activities include snorkelling and diving trips to nearby coral reefs, jungle treks to waterfalls and mountain peaks, elephant rides and motorbiking adventures to the stunning southeast coast. If all this isn't enough, 51 more islands await in the Ko Chang archipelago, including Ko Kut and Ko Maak.

Orientation
An upside-down U-shaped road runs from Salak Phet on the southeast coast, up past the sleepy eastern shore and the two main ferry piers in the north, then down the length of the developed west coast all the way to Ao Bang Bao in the southwest, where boats can be caught for Ko Maak, Ko Kut and other islands.

There is no road connecting Ao Bang Bao directly to Salak Phet; motorbiking from one end to the other takes between two and three hours without stopping. A partial connector road was built several years ago but the project was abandoned before it could complete the loop.

Use extreme caution when motorbiking or driving on Ko Chang, particularly on the steep and treacherous switchback roads that connect Khlong Son to Haad Sai Khao, Kai Bae to Lonely Beach, and Salak Khok to Long Beach. With numerous hairpin turns high on the cliffs there is little room for mistake. Even on straighter sections, minibuses and songthaews often barrel down hills at breakneck speeds.

Most of the beaches are on the west coast, and each has built up with a distinctive atmosphere.

Khlong Son has a local flavour; travellers usually only stay here if seeking peace and quiet on its sheltered bay, or along a scenic inland valley road. South of that, Haad Sai Khao is by far Ko Chang's most developed area. It's home to countless characterless resorts, but also some interesting budget and midrange accommodation on the beach's quieter northern end. The main drag is a tacky swirl of souvenir shops, convenience stores and pubs, some of which have a seedy element.

Continuing south, the local village of Chai Chet almost feels like a typical mainland Thai town, with a motorbike dealer, hardware store, butcher, small supermarket and night market lining its not-so-attractive main road. The town's northern section has a string of neon pink bars where some of the resident expat men can be found drinking their nights away, though a decent beach is also found in this vicinity.

The road then tapers into Khlong Prao, which hosts a few kilometres of great beaches that are gradually becoming more developed. This is also where you'll find a hidden inland shanti-town where many low-wage Cambodian workers live. A non-profit school, Study Buddies, meets the needs of local children -- you might consider stopping by to donate during your stay. A large number of traveller-oriented services and restaurants are found along the main road, especially towards the south of Khlong Prao.

The restaurants and travel offices become more densely packed in Kai Bae, a favourite of families and couples, including no shortage of mainland Europeans, Scandinavians and Russians. Some of the island's best international food can be scored here, and though narrow, the beach is lovely.

After a tight pinch in the headland road that's sure to make some butts squirm, Lonely Beach ushers in a more "out there" feel that attracts budget backpackers and Bob Marley worshipers. The small beach is also excellent, though most seem to stay here for the affordable bungalows and party scene. A 10-minute walk south of Lonely Beach village lies Ao Bailan, which makes up for its mostly rocky coast with a pleasantly quiet atmosphere suited to families, flashpackers and backpackers who appreciate a good night's sleep.

Beyond Bailan lies Ao Bang Bao, a picturesque bay and former fishing village that has now almost entirely switched to tourism as its chief industry. A 700 metre-long pier juts out into the teal water, and some interesting places to stay are found both on the pier and the rugged peninsula that forms the bay's eastern half. To the west of the pier is Khlong Kloi, a tranquil beach that's a favourite of hippies and long stayers.

Most of the island's eastern coastline is made up of rocks and mangroves, though a few isolated beaches can be discovered if you poke around. We highly recommend motorbiking all the way down to the charming villages of Salak Khok and Salak Phet. The dirt road to Long Beach is one of the bumpiest we've ever ridden, but it's also one of the most breathtakingly scenic. If you seek some serious quietude, a handful of low-key homestays and bungalow joints are also found here.

ATMs and currency exchange booths are scattered throughout all of the island's major centres, with full-on bank branches found in Haad Sai Khao. A quality international medical clinic run by Bangkok Hospital is located between Haad Sai Khao and Khlong Prao. They charge a minimum of 4,000 baht even for something minor, though your travel insurance should cover this. If you're dumb enough to travel without insurance, the Koh Chang Hospital in Dan Mai on the east coast will be cheaper, and a smaller, less expensive medical clinic is also located in Khlong Prao. The island's central police station is found in Dan Mai, with tourist police boxes scattered around the west coast.

Ko Chang experiences a severe monsoon season from July to October. Some resorts close during these months, while others scale down to skeleton staffs. On the other hand, if you don't mind some rain and a very quiet atmosphere, discounts of up to 50% off high season rates are readily available.

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Chiang Mai travel guide, Thailand

Thailand's northern capital, Chiang Mai is the country's second most-visited city, yet in terms of size it does not remotely compare to Bangkok. With its smaller size and population, Chiang Mai has a lot in its favour for tourists and travellers alike, with the centre of town packed with glittering wats, excellent restaurants and expansive shopping markets all of which are easily taken in on foot.

If Thai temples are your thing, then Chiang Mai has a lot to offer -- the hill-top Wat Doi Suthep is the crown jewels, but the old city is packed with a vivid collection of traditional Thai temples, with Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Chiang Man being three of the true standouts -- there's even a developing "monk chat" scene. The city's temples and Lanna architecture are so popular in fact that one of Chiang Mai's most luxurious hotels (with some controversy) modelled itself on one.

The city is also home to some excellent museums, with both a museum district developing within the heart of the Old City and the long-running National Museum sitting outside the centre of town. Chiang Mai is also as much a living museum with sleepy back lanes lined with attractive traditional houses and plenty of markets to explore.

Home to the prestigious Chiang Mai University, the city has quite a cosmopolitan feel when compared to other northern Thai provinces and it has a lively entertainment scene accompanied by some of the best eating in northern Thailand -- this is not a town you'll go hungry in.

Most famous for its khao soi, Chiang Mai also delivers solid Northern Thai cuisine both at a street and market level and in its burgeoning selection of more upmarket restaurants. Thanks to its proximity to both Burma and Laos there are even more foods to try.

Accommodation-wise, Chiang Mai has an outstanding selection of options, from friendly budget guesthouses through to luxurious hotels and resorts. In the Old City area along you can barely throw a plate of somtam without hitting a guesthouse.

By northern Thai standards, Chiang Mai has a pretty comprehensive light-life scene, with everything from trendy riverside bars with live music through to grungy student bars and expat pubs. There's also a lively scene primarily aimed at helping backpackers meet more backpackers -- not quite mini Khao San Road, but not far off either.

But most foreign holiday-makers find themselves in Chiang Mai not for the temples nor the food, nor even the entertainment scene, but rather for the hill-tribe trekking. For decades Chiang Mai has formed the trekking base of northern Thailand -- and while there are some excellent tour companies in the city, there remain a number of shoddy operators -- be sure to do your research before heading into the hinterland.

Many travellers are now opting to commence their treks further afield in Mae Hong Son, Pai or Soppong (amongst others) where the tourist numbers are lower and the perceived experience more "authentic".

For those who choose to stay in the city, other popular activities include taking a Thai cooking course, a river cruise, learning a bit of Thai or maybe flying through the jungle.

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Ko Tao travel guide, Thailand

Cashew shaped Ko Tao, or Turtle Island, is one of Thailand's top diving locations, with plenty of amazing dive sites within easy reach of the Gulf of Thailand destination. Whale sharks are seasonal visitors and this is probably one of the few places in the world where you can see these gentle giants while scuba diving. But Ko Tao also has plenty to offer non-divers, with an array of non-water based activities such as hiking and yoga. Those willing to escape from the congested diver hotspots are rewarded with gorgeous beaches, great viewpoints and hospitable locals.

But it hasn't always been snorkels and sunscreen here. In the past, Ko Tao has been a pirate's hideout, a layover for fishermen, a prison and a badly-kept hardcore backpacker secret. While some say the island took its name from its turtle shape, others say it was named for the turtles that used to breed plentifully in its waters. Today, the turtles largely go elsewhere and instead thousands of recreational divers and other tourists flock here annually. The island is ranked number two worldwide for the issuing of PADI certificates. (Top spot is held by Cairns, Australia.)

Western travellers first stumbled on Ko Tao in the 1980s, leading to the first rickety bamboo bungalows being thrown up. Within a decade, the island became a well-established alternative to Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui, thanks to its fine snorkelling and the cheap huts. In more recent years, development has exploded, with more than 100 resorts, around 40 diving schools and many other related businesses now operating on the island. Accommodation now ranges from semi-budget beach shacks through to boutique resorts and villas meaning there is just about something for everyone.

The rapid development has transformed Mae Haad and Sairee from traditional wooden villages with dirt roads to bustling tourist centres. Despite this, Ko Tao does retain a certain rustic charm versus Samui, Pha Ngan and Phuket, and visitors can still find picture book Thailand tucked away on this small island.

The busiest times of year are Christmas-New Year and July-August, when booking ahead is strongly recommended as it can be next to impossible to find a budget bed otherwise. Whale shark sightings occur outside the peak times, typically between March and May and a few in September and October too. Budget accommodation also books up quickly directly after adjacent Ko Pha Ngan's Full Moon Party, when partiers arrive here after their break there.

The ongoing violence in Thailand's deep south and political uncertainties in the capital have contributed to a drop off in arrivals to the island, though neither of these issues have much to do with Ko Tao. The island is generally very safe and with its great variety of activities and places to stay, there's never been a better time to visit.

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Ko Samui travel guide, Thailand

Back in the days when backpackers to Southeast Asia were first discovering Ko Samui in the 1970s, a basic thatched hut with running water and electricity was considered luxury. Now Ko Samui is home to some of Thailand's best luxury resorts and in the popularity stakes is surpassed only by Phuket.

With an international airport, a mass of ferry connections and close to 500 hotels and guesthouses, this is not somewhere to come to glimpse a corner of the Thai kingdom untouched by tourism development. One good thing about tourism development on the island is the written law that no building may be taller than the nearest coconut palm; this means that, unlike Phuket, tall apartment blocks and hotels do not ruin the skyline. The highest building is about four storeys high, and bungalow-type accommodation is still the style that is most abundant.

Samui and its neighbouring islands were first inhabited by Malay fishermen from the mainland as well as immigrants from Southern China who took advantage of a surrounding sea teeming with fish. The Chinese influence is still evident on Samui, especially at Fisherman's Village, where rows of Chinese shophouses sit next to European-influenced buildings and create a village atmosphere. The island is home to several Chinese temples and Chinese New Year is celebrated with a bang, literally, at the temple near the Mae Nam walking street market.

Despite today's crowds, if you're hunting for white-sand beaches, turquoise waters and all-day sun, Samui can be a fine choice and our Ko Samui travel guide should help you to find the best beach, guesthouse or hotel for your needs. Use Samui as a base to explore the neighbouring islands of Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, as well as the Ang Thong National Marine Park. The islands and the park are both only a short boat or ferry trip away.

With a population of about 40,000 residents, and more than a million visitors a year, Ko Samui's inadequate infrastructure is at breaking point. While at the turn of the millennium development continued unabated, over the past five years there seems to be more control over where and how development happens. Local government has spent big on improving infrastructure such as roads and drainage after the floods of November 2010 and March 2011 proved that there was a need for drastic improvement. Resorts team together to maintain the beaches, and after storms, they quickly clean up and repair any damage.

There is very little recorded history of Samui, and there are two schools of thought on how the name came about. The first is derived from a commonly found tree called a "mui". The second and more popular theory is that the name comes from the Chinese word "saboey", meaning 'safe haven', which it was to the original Chinese fishermen.

Before the crowds drag themselves out of bed, popular Chaweng and Lamai remain pretty, while on the north side, quieter Mae Nam has a growing reputation. Of course there are many other beaches worth investigating, such as Choeng Mon and Bophut, and quiet secluded bays in the west and south -- don't make the mistake of spending your entire Ko Samui sojourn on just the one stretch of sand.

Ko Samui has a large expat community, with the majority being from the UK, France, Germany, Scandinavia and Russia. The island has several good schools, and boasts the UK affiliated International School of Samui to cater to both expat kids as well as those of wealthier Thais. Many locals can speak a fair amount of English, being exposed to so many foreigners, and with tourism being the island's main income. Samui offers many modern conveniences, with supermarkets such as Tesco Lotus, Big C and Macro. The island has a bowling alley and cinema, five hospitals, and an abundance of optometrists, dentists and pharmacies. It does not at this stage have the large shopping malls of Phuket.

With all of these Western influences, some may consider Samui to no longer represent "real Thailand", but, like much of Thailand, a degree of Westernised development is part and parcel with the ever-changing Thai nation and, as everywhere in the country, pockets of a more traditional way of life remain. One only has to attend a buffalo fight, bird singing competition, or authentic muay Thai fight to see where the locals congregate in their free time.

Among all this development, some stunning resorts have appeared on the island. If budget is of no concern, then Samui has some terrific options for serious pampering -- and best of all you'll not need to leave the resort. For those on tighter budgets, bargains can be found in areas such as Mae Nam and Fisherman's Village.

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Ko Pha Ngan travel guide, Thailand

Although best known for the monthly full moon parties, which attract thousands of travellers from all over the globe, there is a lot more to stunning Ko Pha Ngan than getting trashed and passing out in the powder-soft white sand.

The mid-sized and quite mountainous island (it stretches over 168 sq km and 70% of its topography is mountainous jungle with the remainder beaches and coconut groves) is situated roughly a third of the way from Ko Samui to Ko Tao. The island's original inhabitants are believed to have been either sea gypsies, or have come from Pattani or Nakhon Si Thammarat and once they settled the island, the main established industries became fishing and coconut cultivation.

Today, the coconut and fishing industries are still going, but they've been surpassed in monetary value by tourism and while the original inhabitants may have been predominantly Muslim, the present day population is mostly Buddhist. This is in part due to the massive influx of labour from elsewhere in Thailand seeking work in the thriving tourist industry — the guy taking your dinner order is as likely to be from Roi Et as the island's capital, Thong Sala. Over 10,000 people permanently live on the island, with the majority concentrated around Thong Sala.

From the mid eighties onwards, Ko Pha Ngan's popularity has skyrocketed among backpackers and independent travellers who eschewed the more developed Ko Samui. This has been supported by the increasing awareness and popularity of the Full Moon Party. Nowadays, Ko Pha Ngan is in many areas moving away from its backpacker roots and attracting families and package tourists in droves as well.

Of course the most major attraction is still the legendary Full Moon Party on Haad Rin beach. This monthly happening is a drug- and booze-fuelled cavorting — and very commercial — hullabaloo, and while it had its origins in a very low key, personalised gathering, today, with package tours coming out from London solely to attend the party, it's a far cry from the days back then. The party often attracts in excess of twenty thousand people who dance and party away from the evening well into the next day.

But it's not exactly the group love-in you might be imagining — drugs for sale are almost as common as undercover police, rampant theft (both from unattended bungalows and passed out partiers on the beach) and violent and sexual assault are major concerns. Fatalities are more common than the English-language press in Thailand lets on.

That said, it's not all bad, and thousands upon thousands of people attend every month suffering no more than a headache the next day. To try to minimise the dangers, try to stay in control, if you are going to use drugs, don't leave them in your room or on your person and don't walk up to complete strangers asking to buy acid — you will get busted. Drugs are illegal in Thailand, the penalties are severe and don't bank on the assumption you'll be able to buy your way out of the police station. Use your guesthouse's safe to store your valuables and basically don't head out with anything you can't afford to lose.

In fact there seems to be many ways to skin a moon and don't be disappointed if your timetable doesn't coincide with the actual Full Moon party — there is after all the Half Moon Party, Dark Moon Party and various other excuses for a romp taking place throughout the month. If you're on Ko Pha Ngan for anything more than a couple of days, chances are there'll be a party somewhere.

The Full Moon Party takes place at Haad Rin Beach, but it isn't necessary to find accommodation there to attend the party, as every beach will run transport to the party on the evening — indeed many commute over from Ko Samui for the night.

But there's much more to this island than parties. It is ringed by over a dozen beaches — some with fine white sand that squeaks between your toes and others with a more grainy, yellow sand. Most of the beaches are reasonably easy to reach — the road network improves every year and few beaches are only reachable to boat. This ease of access means that it is far easier than it used to be to base yourself on one beach, but do day trips to others.

The south coast of Ko Pha Ngan, running from the island's capital at Ao Thong Sala, though Ban Tai and Ban Kai to Haad Rin and Haad Saikantang are the islands most exposed beaches. Facing south towards Ko Samui, the beaches are protected by an offshore reef and the waters are very shallow, making this an ideal option for travelling families with small kids. It's possible to walk almost the full stretch without leaving the beach (though you'll have to wade a small river at one stage) and there's a wide variety of bungalows and small hotels for the entire length.

The east coast, running from Haad Rin north to the twin bays of Thong Nai Pan Noi and Yai offer some of the most isolated beaches on the island. The drop-off from the beach tends to be sharper on these beaches and the swimming is consequently better. Bungalows range from rustic shacks on Than Sadet through to luxury villas on Thong Nai Pan Noi.

The north coast encompasses Bottle Beach — long a backpacker haven, and Chaloklam Bay — the island's main fishing port — and the epicentre of Ko Pha Ngan's small diving industry. The north coast is also home to the islet of Ko Ma off Mae Haad Beach. As with the south coast, the beaches are a bit more exposed.

The west coast, like the east, is riddled with small bays and secretish beaches. The southwest corner of the island, just before you reach Thong Sala has some terrific budget deals. Though the beaches on this coast feel isolated, they're actually relatively well connected to Thong Sala by road and the development reflects this.

As the road network has improved, so has the range of accommodation on Ko Pha Ngan. In part due to their being an international airport on nearby Ko Samui, this is no longer a destination of nothing more than thatch bungalows. Indeed if you've money to burn there's a growing supply of truly luxurious villas and resorts on offer but also a glut of characterless over-priced mid-range accommodation. Land developers are also having a bit of a feeding frenzy — with plots for sale all over the place. For the most part though, the accommodation is focused on backpacker and flashpacker bungalows and mid-range hotels and resorts.

Aside from the beach, Ko Pha Ngan has great potential for boat and fishing trips, elephant trekking, diving, ATV rides, zip lines and even kite-boarding as well as other watersports. There's a smattering of waterfalls, many detox and yoga centres and the island is fast becoming renowned for meditation retreats. On the east coast, you'll also find Sanctuary and the related Wellness Centre — famous around the world for its seven day fasting courses. But if all that is way too hectic, equally compelling for many is just spending a few weeks in a hammock, watching the sun rise and fall.

Weather wise, the best time to visit Ko Pha Ngan is during the hot, dry season from January to April. From May to September the island gets a little afternoon rain courtesy of the Southwest monsoon, but the weather is still enjoyable and the seas calm and clear. From October to December it gets both windy and wet thanks to the northeast monsoon. The crowds thin out then, however, making the island appealing to some travellers — on the downside the few unpaved roads left do deteriorate.

It's connected to Ko Samui, Ko Tao and Surat Thani by ferries — see the transport section for details on frequency and cost. If you're coming from Bangkok you can fly to the airport at Ko Samui and then get the boat, or there's a variety of train, bus and ferry combo tickets available. See our story How to get from Bangkok to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao for more information.

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Bangkok travel guide, Thailand

Set astride the majestic, churning Chao Phraya River, the Thai capital Bangkok represents all that is good and bad about an Asian megalopolis. Loved or loathed, it's a city with everything for some and nothing for others, and a place that almost every visitor to Thailand will find themselves in at some stage.

For many travellers, Bangkok, or Krungthep to most Thais (Krungthep mahanakhon amonratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok, popnopharat ratchathani burirom ubonratchaniwet mahasathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit to those who like to refer to places by their full name), is anything but charming on first impressions. But peel back its multitude of layers, and you may well grow to enjoy this fascinating city.

Yes, it's dirty and heavily polluted, and the traffic remains appalling despite two mass transit systems opening over the last few years. Glistening skyscrapers perpetually darken wooden slums and squats, while sparkling new Mercedes dodge food carts being pushed along the slow lane. Bangkok is a city of have and have-nots and the contrast can be alarming.

But the City of Angels harbours enough sights and experiences to keep travellers occupied for months -- some end up staying indefinitely -- with one of the best ways to grasp its splendour to simply wander through its colourful streets, where the pedestrian takes second place to the thousands of taxis, buses, motorbikes, tuk tuks, bicycles and private cars clogging the streets.

Many find it exhilarating, for rare are the quiet moments and rarer still are the moments when you fail to feel utterly alive. Prepare to dive into marvellous aromas drifting from food stalls interspersed with wafts of stinking canals and belching car exhausts.

Political unrest and violence in Bangkok in early 2010 left dozens dead and the city reeling. Peace was quickly restored by the military-backed government, but the fundamental issues that triggered the violence, involving a complex stand-off among Thailand's elites, have yet to be resolved and are likely to one day flare again. All is calm for now, however, and you should book your holiday with some confidence, while always keeping an eye on the news.

Bangkok has an excellent range of hotels and guesthouses. The Chao Phraya's banks are home to two of the best hotels in the world, the Oriental Hotel and the Peninsula Hotel, as well as many other five-star luxury spots, while the backpacker quarter of Khao San Road is overflowing with budget guesthouses and hostels.

Bangkok's shopping is renowned. While the malls here become ever more salubrious and high-end (you will feel downright grotty in some no matter how you dress up), markets remain places to snag bargains, either various knock-off items or original local designer goods that can be incredibly creative.

And when you're totally exhausted, in Bangkok you're in good hands: quite possibly, the world's best. Whether you drop into a shopfront foot massage place for an hour-long session of bliss or you go upmarket and book yourself into a spa for the works -- think manicure, pedicure, body scrub, facial, four-hand massage -- you'll get value for money and service that has a global reputation.

So do give Bangkok a decent chance. Don't let the smog and crowds distract you from what can be an invigorating and and intriguing city.

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Thailand_Temples and beaches

People say Thailand simply offers it all to travellers in a neat, great-value package -- whether you're an independent budget backpacker wanting to explore off the beaten track, or a well-heeled tourist looking for an exclusive slice of paradise.

Rough it while trekking through mist-shrouded mountains; be astounded by teeming aquatic life as you plunge into turquoise waters for a dip; or savour a romantic pool villa for a perfect luxury honeymoon -- you can do it all in the Land of Smiles.

Thailand has been on the international backpacker beat for decades now, and while backpackers are making the most of ever-increasing budget flights to Thailand, these days luxury travellers bolster the numbers too.

From the food and spas, to the temples and culture, Thailand is a land steeped in fascinating Buddhist history, catapulted into the present through fast-paced economic growth that kicked off in the 1960s.

It's true that more than 10 million tourists arrive here annually now, following the well-worn path of those before them. But there's a reason the crowds keep on coming.

The capital Bangkok offers glittering temples on the majestic Chao Phraya River, with shopping for both bargains and top-range designer items luring the masses as well.

It also plays home to the backpacking mecca of Khao San Road -- the epicentre of Southeast Asia's backpacking universe.

Take an elephant trek or hike to see ethnic minorities in cool, mountainous Chiang Mai, then take a flight down south to sip cocktails and sunbathe on the cococut-palm fringed southern islands of Phuket or Ko Samui.

Alternatively, enjoy the pulsing Full Moon Party on Ko Pha Ngan, or a spot of world-class diving off Ko Tao. History buffs will revel in Thailand's ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, and enjoy exploring somewhat more obscure Khmer ruins dotted around the kingdom's north and northeast.

Popular side trips from Bangkok include Ko Samet, just a few hours away by road and boat, while Kanchanaburi is home to the famed Bridge Over the River Kwai, popular waterfalls and the controversial Tiger Temple. Families are heading to quiet Ko Lanta in greater numbers too, while Krabi remains a favourite for island hoppers.

Thailand's southwest coast --including Khao Lak and Ko Phi Phi -- has fully recovered from the 2004 Asian tsunami and flung open its rebuilt doors to tourists again.

And if you want to find your own patch of secluded beach unmarked on maps during your vacation, or a winding stretch of spectacular, empty mountain highway, with a bit of effort you certainly can.

Sip a Beer Chang or Singha as you watch a sunset over the meandering Mekong in Nong Khai, explore the spectacular national parks of Nan, meditate in a forest wat in Isan, rejuvenate at an upmarket spa in historical Hua Hin, or pick up some of the challenging Thai language at any number of schools -- the possibilities are limitless. Thailand's strife-torn Muslim-majority south remains off nearly all tourists' itineraries these days, a shame as it's a beautiful area unique culturally to the rest of the kingdom.

Aside from sights to see, Thailand's world-renowned fiery cuisine -- the perfect antidote to Thailand's weather -- is an attraction in its own right. Savour delicious street food costing next-to-nothing or splurge on high-end royal cuisine, but no matter what you spend, it is always difficult to find a bad authentic Thai meal. Thailand's spas too are among the best in the world, and you can't beat wrapping up your day with a Thai massage on a whitesand beach.

Travelfish not only shows you Thailand's popular spots, but points you in the direction of its best-kept secrets and equips you with the knowledge you need -- from getting Thai visas to getting lost off the map -- to make up-to-the-minute decisions throughout your holiday in Thailand.

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Khao San Road travel guide, Thailand

Fifty years ago, Khao San Road was known locally as a good place to buy rice. Today, it's the most famous backpacker ghetto in the world.

This notorious strip of cheap digs and bars was originally projected into fame by pot-smoking hippies ambling their way along the four Ks of Kabul, Kathmandu, KSR and Kuta back in the 1970s. Despite its complete transformation since then, Khao San's exotic allure has stayed alive in traveller imaginations, fired partly by the decent book-turned-rather-lacklustre-film, The Beach.

Modern Khao San is a hub of somewhat crazed activity that reminds us of the scene at a free-flowing music festival, but with a lot of tuk tuks. It's home to dizzying neon lights, dusty silver shops, persistent touts, stalls selling everything from tie-dyed tank tops to fake Harvard masters degrees, ubiquitous pad Thai and fried bug carts, rowdy bucket bars, tattoo parlours that make a killing off people coming from the rowdy bucket bars, a fastfood joint or two and the occasional Thai granny who shakes her head at the hippies while remembering when it was still a quaint little rice-selling community. Khao San is heaven for some and hell for a few, but it's worth a stroll at least once in a lifetime.

It would however be unfair to label this whole area as a backpacker ghetto. Khao San Road itself is a fairly short street situated within walking distance of Ko Rattanakosin in the heart of the old city, known as Banglamphu. Although budget guesthouses and increasingly more upmarket hotels stretch outwards from Khao San for quite a way, the surrounding area is still one of the most charming and historic in the city.

Running parallel just north of Khao San Road and continuing across Chakrabongse Road to the west is Soi Rambutri, which was the first neighbourhood street to be gobbled up by the backpacker craze and now feels like Khao San-lite. Beyond that, Phra Athit Road runs along the river and hosts artsy cafes and bars, laidback guesthouses and some fantastic hole-in-the-wall eateries. North of Khao San you'll find a similarly low-key atmosphere amid the old city streets that meander up towards Dusit.

A stone's throw to the south of Khao San is one of Bangkok's other most famous roads, Ratchadamnoen, which was built by King Rama V in 1899 to connect the Grand Palace to Dusit Palace. In a roundabout at the centre of this 10-lane road and not far from Khao San is Democracy Monument, an imposing symbol of Thailand's switch to a constitutional monarchy in the 1930s that has since become more symbolic of the Thai people's struggle for democracy. Pro-democracy Thai demonstrators perished here at the hands of Thai military in 1973, 1992 and 2010.

South and east of Ratchadamnoen are several canals that mingle with centuries-old streets like Dinso, Bamrung Mueang and Tanao, and major historical landmarks like the Golden Mount and Giant Swing. Many of these old roads are lined with attractive two-storey heritage shophouses which are often still devoted to a single trade or product, such as wooden furniture or temple supplies. Don't settle for overpriced, watered down Thai food on Khao San; some of the best food in Bangkok can be scored from simple shops and street carts on Banglamphu streets like these.

As for Khao San Road itself, many choose to stay here simply due to convenience. Travel agencies will accommodate any imaginable need and it couldn't be easier to find internet, laundry and cheap beer. Plenty of travellers stay for a lot longer than originally planned, enjoying the whole "I'm-a-traveller-not-a-tourist" scene. If you're young, on a budget and looking to mingle with other backpackers, staying around Khao San at least once is a no-brainer (just keep an eye out for scams). But keep in mind that there are other parts of Bangkok that have some fantastic guesthouses and all the services a traveller needs.

One more point to consider before committing to Khao San: while not far from most of Bangkok's most popular tourist sites, this area is several kilometres from the nearest BTS (sky train) and MRT (subway) stations. A Chao Phraya express boat pier and canal boat taxi pier are both within walking distance, but most who stay at Khao San rely on tuk tuks and taxis to get around.

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Ko Phi Phi travel guide, Thailand

Ko Phi Phi, or Phi Phi Island, is one of the most talked about places in Southeast Asia, with its natural beauty and reputation for good times putting it firmly on the tourist trail. The beauty of the island is unparalleled, even in a region of the world renowned for its stunning destinations. Limestone cliffs, turquoise waters, white sand beaches and miles of trackless forest make Phi Phi a perfect tropical island.

Developments over the past 20 years however have made it the subject of great controversy. Those who wanted to preserve its natural character have been pitched against those who wanted to make it a world-class holiday destination, and profit financially from the trade.

To understand the dispute, imagine what the island was like more than two decades ago when it was first 'discovered' by adventurous backpackers looking for Eden on earth. They found it on Ko Phi Phi Don -- a long, wide sand bar gracefully arching between two magnificent islands, creating two placid bays ideal for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving, surrounded by cliffs waiting to be climbed and forests to be explored.

Back then only a scattering of bungalows dotted the island, which was populated mostly by a community of sea-faring gypsies who call themselves the Chao Ko, or Island People. There was no pier and only one public boat each week made scheduled trips to the island.

But the paradox in seeking out a hidden paradise is that it winds up on the map and others begin to seek it out, too -- in ever-increasing numbers. The once-idyllic Ton Sai beach became a port, clogged with boats and debris, with a pier to accommodate the large vessels needed to bring the growing number of visitors to shore.

The sandy isthmus is almost unrecognisable now, blanketed with guesthouses, luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, tailors, tattoo shops, travel agents, banks, mini-marts, jewellery stalls and clothing markets. Tourists are hounded by Thais and resident foreigners alike touting diving trips, boats for hire, places to stay and bars to drink at. Those who remember what it once was, and what it could have been, find it impossible not to shed a tear when they see the place today. It exists, after all, on what is national park land. Thailand might have created a well-managed park with walking trails, rock-climbing, caving, unspoiled diving and snorkelling sites. From that perspective, it is a paradise lost.

But the blame doesn't rest solely with foreign tourists. The Western world has been paving paradise and putting up parking lots for a long time before Thailand got into the game and can hardly take the moral high ground. Whatever one may wish had been done with Ko Phi Phi, the balance of forces in Thai government and society have developed the island as a well-developed and fairly affordable resort destination for holiday-makers from around the world

The checkered history of Ko Phi Phi took a tragic turn in 2004 when the Asian tsunami lashed its shores. In the wake of the devastation, the balance of power seemed to shift as plans were revived to assert government control of the island and restore its status as a national park, allowing only careful and controlled development.

Local land owners saw this as a land grab by parties within the Thai government. The government's plans were thwarted and private industry rebuilt, reinvested, and expanded the island's infrastructure. And they did so in fairly short order, considering the enormity of the task and a complete lack of any government relief. Private development picked up where it left off before the tsunami and shows no intention of changing course.

More hotels, bungalows and shops are being added to the island with each passing year, and by 2013 the island's visitor arrival numbers were up to 2.5 million a year, including day-trippers from the mainland and Phuket. A distressing sight on arrival in 2014 was the construction of a giant shopping plaza just steps away from the pier, next to the Phi Phi Island Cabana resort. What, aside from naked, unchecked greed could have ever allowed this to happen? Being met with this claustrophobic "Buy Buy Buy" scene in your face the moment you arrive to the island speaks volumes for the lack of a coherent, sustainable plan for Phi Phi.

Recently the beachside parties have been getting larger, with the noise pollution keeping those nearby awake until 3/4/5 am. This has become a serious issue for hut operations around the beach area on Ao Lo Dalam. The licensing laws governing alcohol sales simply do not apply to some bars and outfits -- those that are well connected, local advice suggests. Many travellers do end up changing accommodation or having miserable stays.

Despite the touts and the crowds, Ton Sai village remains just what many vacationers are looking for in a fun, memorable holiday. And in terms of the unspoilt tropical paradise the island once was, the good news for the keepers of the flame is that it has not died out completely. Ko Phi Phi Don's sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh remains completely untouched, being only available for daytrips by boat -- though many now complain that the inundation by daytrippers spoils the place in an only slightly less regrettable way.

Modern Phi Phi can be summed up as a place with plenty of choice, a vibrant nightlife and an island which still retains its natural stunning beauty -- all at a price though. The crowds will bother some, the prices will make many cringe and the disappearance of the Thai smile may be upsetting, but overall Phi Phi remains a must-see destination.

During our most recent visit in August 2014, just months after the coup in Bangkok, Thai soldiers began making checks along Phi Phi's beaches and a few people working at beachside bars told us that they were ordered to scale back or stop their fire shows and late-night parties. Within weeks of these initial checks, some encroaching restaurants and guesthouses were ordered to close, according to local media reports. It remains to be seen, however, if freewheeling Phi Phi will eventually get the same junta treatment as its neighbour Phuket, which was subject to some dramatic clearouts of commercial activity on its beaches and parks in mid-2014.

Orientation
The Phi Phi islands are set right in the middle of Phang Nga Bay about equidistant between Phuket and the Krabi mainland, with all accommodation and services found on the largest island, Phi Phi Don. Most of its 28 square kilometres is forest, while its edges are ringed with white-sand beaches and steep karst cliffs.

One side of the narrow, flat isthmus in the middle of the island is Ton Sai bay, where the pier and most boat activity can be found. All arrivals at the pier must pay a 20 baht entry fee, which goes towards cleaning of the island. Ton Sai beach stretches out along the bay, while inland is the busy Ton Sai village, where most of the hostels and cheaper accommodation choices on Phi Phi are found as well as the local market and scads of food stands, bars, restaurants, dive shops, tattoo parlours, massage centres and clothing/souvenir shops.

Walking straight over to the other side takes you to Lo Dalam beach, home to a narrow stretch of sand and the island's main party scene. Despite the noise, a growing number of bungalows and small hotels are venturing back here, which was a popular area to stay before everything got swept away in the 2004 tsunami. Just beyond the beach, past the Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort, a new path has been carved into the headland and several cheap to mid-range bungalows are being built up along here.

Those hoping to escape the crowds can easily catch a boat or (less easily) walk to one of the beaches along Phi Phi's east coast, where a more sedate, family-oriented scene prevails. A short longtail boat trip or a 15-minute walk along the seaside path from Ton Sai beach takes you to Phi Phi's most stunning length of sands, Long Beach, which is lined with mostly mid-range bungalows.

Laem Thong beach at the northeastern tip of the island has five fully-fledged resorts along its sands including the four-star Holiday Inn and the ultra-chic, and pricey, Zeavola resort. One beach south, Ao Lo Bakao, is the domain of the sprawling Outrigger resort, while more low-key and local style places of varying prices and quality may be found at Pak Nam, Rantee and Toh Ko beaches.

With few cars or roads on Phi Phi, expect to do plenty of walking here, or budget for some boat trips should you wish to explore the island beyond the Ton Sai village area.

For banking services, several ATMs and a few small banks are scattered around Ton Sai beach and Ton Sai village, and the larger resorts will be able to change money for you.

Many restaurants and hotels offer WiFi internet service, usually for free, and the signal for mobile phone service is adequate most anywhere on the island. A few shops around Ton Sai village sell mobile phones, SIM cards and computer accessories. For computers or laptops you'll need to go to Phuket or Krabi Town, though we did find one shop that does repairs. Electricity is better than it used to be and is on 24 hours a day, except at more remote beaches, where your hotel may have generator power in the evening hours only.

Phi Phi's only hospital, just a large clinic really, is on Ton Sai beach about 100 metres from the pier towards the Ton Sai cliffs (T: (075) 622 151). A few more small medical clinics are found around Ton Sai village. Patients in need of more serious medical treatment or emergency care are usually transferred by boat to one of the international hospitals on Phuket. Divers take note: the nearest hyperbaric chamber is at Phuket International Hospital on Phuket, so be sure to check with your dive operator about their plan/ability to handle cases of decompression sickness before you book.

Phi Phi has a local police station near Carlito's bar on Ton Sai beach. T: (075) 601 061; Emergency 191.

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Coral and Raya Islands, Thailand

Off Phuket's southern coast lie a number of small islands whose pristine shores lure scuba divers and beach bums away from the mainland. Most of these isolated islands are undeveloped, but the notable exceptions are Coral Island and Ko Raya (also known as Ko Racha) which have accommodation options and restaurants.

Both islands have safe swimming, reefs teeming with aquatic life, and a sense of getting away from it all that's harder and harder to come by in Phuket proper. Coral Island is privately owned by the Coral Island Resort — the only place to stay on the island. Ko Raya is larger and, while still largely undeveloped, is home to three established resorts and a nameless bungalow operations open only during the high season.

Coral Island
Only a 15-minute speed boat trip from Chalong pier, Coral Island is the more commercial of the two islands. During the day, it plays host to a steady stream of daytripppers who come to enjoy the island's long white sandy beach and excellent year-round swimming.

Unfortunately, a huge influx of tourists have also brought a steady amount of garbage to the beaches which no one seems bothered to pick up. However, the snorkelling is decent and you don't have to go out very far before you start to see colourful reef fish, making this an excellent beach for kids to learn how to snorkel. Aim to snorkel near the front of the resort (in front is for guests only) — the beach is cleaner and the coral less damaged from the lack of anchored boats.

Other beach activities like diving, banana boat rides, and parasailing are available (at a price, of course). A host of souvenir shops, restaurants, and services operate along the beach. If you're aching for an oil massage, in need of a cold drink, or forgot your swimmers, all can be purchased on the island. Lots of boat operators scream into megaphones along the beaches — so much that you may want to try Ko Raya instead.

Ko Raya
Ko Raya is a prime destination for yachties, who stay at the resorts, and divers, who typically book up all the island's cheaper rooms. Between the yachts, diving boats, and speedboats with snorkelling daytrippers, Raya's beautiful bays can get quite congested during the high season.

The beaches and bays are connected by dirt roads in a state of perpetual bumpiness due to run-off during the rainy season. It is possible to rent a 100cc motorbike, but you're better off walking. A common sight is a cart loaded with divers and their gear being towed to the beach by a tractor or ATV.

Activities on the island include snorkelling, mountain biking, and nature hikes. The resorts offer organised activities like fishing trips and horseback riding, but these will put a big dent in your wallet. For those willing to explore, rent a snorkel and mask and visit Lah Bay for some great snorkelling — giant star fish, puffer fish and rainbow trout a plenty swim here.

A small predominantly Muslim population of farmers and fishermen live on Raya, and there's even a small mosque. None of the island's restaurants serve pork and, in case you were planning to, visitors are asked not to bring any with them.

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Haad Rin, Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand

Haad Rin (Thai: หาดริ้น, RTGS: Hat Rin, Thai pronunciation: [hàːt rín]) is a peninsular beach area and town on the southern tip ofKo Pha Ngan, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. Its two main beaches are Sunset Beach (Haad Rin Nai) to the south and the larger Sunrise Beach (Haad Rin Nok) to the north. The famous Full Moon Party takes place on Sunrise Beach each month.

The town and beach first became popular with backpackers escaping the tourist influx to Ko Samui in the 1980s. As the popularity of the beach and Full Moon Party have increased, the town has grown to accommodate the new visitors. The town is centred on Chicken Corner, a crossroads and popular meeting spot.

Most of the nightlife in the town is centred on beachfront spots. The original beach bars, Drop-In Bar and Cactus Bar attract the largest crowds, with nightly drinks promotions and fire shows. Here, popular chart tunes, R&B and club classics entertain the crowds. Other beach bars include Vinyl Club, Zoom (both playing psytrance, the original Full Moon Party style of music), Orchid (playing Drum and Bass and Jungle) and Boom Boom Bar (playing deeper house and trance music).

 

Fire shows

Apart from the music and bars on the beaches of Haad Rin, a famous feature of the Haad Rin are the nightly fire shows put on by individuals at the Cactus and Drop-In bars. Various individuals specialize in the arts of Poi and Staff, performing mind-boggling and beautiful tricks to entertain the crowds. The firesticks are ropes twisted around sticks and soaked in diesel which, when burned, emits choking clouds of toxic stench. Many tourists are inspired by the shows and opt to take up daytime lessons before joining the evening fire shows.

 

Pollution

Haad Rin is polluted with litter. There are sewerage works and the sewerage is not pumped into the sea. The beach is kept relatively clean considering the constant parties.

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