Cambodia’s Angkor is, quite simply, one of the most splendid
attractions in all of Southeast Asia. Long considered “lost”, the ruins of
Angkor were never really lost to the Khmers, who have used the monuments as
religious sites throughout their history.
The myth of the lost ruins of Angkor is more suited to an Angelina Jolie
film than the history books. The story more or less begins with their being
“rediscovered” by Western explorers in the 19th century, beginning with the
French botanist Henri Mahout who stumbled across Angkor Wat in 1860. Few
remember though that Mahout was led to the site by a Khmer guide and that when
he arrived, he found a flourishing Buddhist monastery within the temple
grounds.
During the Khmer Rouge period, the ruins were largely left to their own
devices. Like most Khmers, even Pol Pot was unable to shake the power of the
site, saying in 1977, “If our people can make Angkor, they can make anything.”
Never lost, lost then found, found then lost then found again — today it
doesn’t really matter. With thousands of people visiting daily, the sprawling
Angkor Park remains a see-at-least-once-in-your-life destination.
Angkor refers to the entire 400 square kilometre Archaeological Park, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site packed with historic temples, hydraulic structures
such as reservoirs, ancient highways and forest. Angkor Wat is the iconic temple with lotus-like
towers at the heart of the park while Angkor Thom is the ancient walled city, within
which many more temples are found.
Most of the nearest accommodation is in Siem Reap, while for food and drink, there are
some snack stalls set up by Angkor Wat. They’ll offer basics like baguettes and
noodle soup and much-needed bottles of water at slightly inflated prices, as do
the row of restaurants running alongside to Srah Srang — don’t expect haute cuisine, and you
will not be disappointed. Alternatively Angkor Cafe, opposite the front
entrance to Angkor Wat, offers air-con, a gift shop and Western fare. Unless
you’re in a rush, in the middle of the day you’re best to head back to Siem
Reap for a rest and a meal — Siem Reap has some outstanding restaurants.
Passes to the park cost $20 for one day, $40 for three days of visits
within a week, and $60 for seven days of visits within a month. Ticketing
is operated by privately owned Sokimex Corporation. The process takes a few
minutes and they take your photo and print it on the ticket, so don’t hope to
share a week’s pass with a fellow backpacker unless you bear an uncanny
resemblance. Only the main entrance issues tickets, despite there being other
roads that enter the park. Tickets are checked at almost every temple too,
including the ones further afield. The ticket sales booths open at 05:00,
though if you are intent on jostling for the best spot for sunrise and plan to
leave earlier, it is possible to buy your ticket the evening prior – after
17:00. It is also free to enter without a pass at all after 17:30, but given
the sun sets early in Cambodia be prepared to return in the pitch black. The
temples are not lit at night, so there’s nothing to hang around for.
Transport to the park for the day is relatively easy. The going rate for a
day-long tuk tuk ride through the park is $15. This price includes Angkor Wat, Bayon, and all the temples in the immediate
surrounds. For longer distances, expect to pay more. Trekking out to the Rolous
Group of temples about 13 kilometres away will cost around an extra $3, while
prices for trips to Banteay Srei and even farther temples can range
wildly depending on your driver’s willingness to make the trip. The roads are
all flat so it is easy to cycle – as long as you can cope well with heat and
avoid the steady stream of tour buses on the main routes.
An English-speaking guide costs $30 a day – a rate set by the Khmer Angkor
Tour Guide Association. It will cost more for guides speaking other languages.
Some of the best tour guides can charge more than this as they are in high
demand. A good guide is recommended if you really want to understand the
thousands of carvings adorning the buildings and get pointers on what time of
day to visit the various sites.
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