It's easy to imagine Singapore as a single sprawling air-con
mall with good public transport and smooth pavements, but that would be both
lazy and inaccurate. It's also easy to think of Singapore as being overpriced
and only worth a night or two before heading elsewhere where your money will
stretch further. That would also be a mistake. Lastly, it's easy to think of
Singapore as being sterile, characterless and boring. This is also most definitely
a mistake.
There's nowhere quite like Singapore in Southeast Asia. If anything, it tends
to remind us more of Sydney (but with better food) than any of the great
Southeast Asian cities, but the vast differences of the city state are all the
more reason to visit and explore. Yes, you'll most likely spend more money here
than say in Bangkok or Saigon, but that's partly because there is just so much
to do in the city and its surrounds.
In broad strokes, downtown Singapore can be divided up into a number of areas,
each with its own character and points of interest for travellers. While the
city is awash with malls, shoppers may be particularly attracted to
Orchard
Road, while those with an interest in museums and galleries will be better
served by heading to the
banks
of the Singapore River and
Raffles.
Chinatown,
Little
India,
Kampong
Glam and
Geylang
each have their own fabulous eating scenes. Lovers of open spaces will be
relieved to learn that no Southeast Asian capital has devoted as much of its
downtown to parkland and catchment as Singapore.
 |
| Slow down and explore the amazing Gardens By The Sea. |
All of this is extremely well interlinked via the affordable and
comfortable SMRT, but on offer as well is a great bus network plus plenty of
taxis for when you're heading to one of the few spots not within a 10-minute
walk of an MRT station. There's no city that is quite as easy to get around as
Singapore.
Below we cover some of the main districts of interest to travellers, commencing
in the backpacker and flashpacker favourite of Chinatown.
Chinatown
It may seem redundant to have a Chinatown in a
predominantly Chinese city, but you'll change your mind when you see it. Though
Chinatown lies on the fringe of Singapore's central business district,
they feel a century apart. Here glass skyscrapers are shrunk to three-storey
shophouses, people recharge with herbal teas instead of Starbucks, and life
goes by at a slower, if perhaps noisier, pace. Though the signs are in English,
the voices ring out in Cantonese and Mandarin dialects.
 |
| All decked out for Chinese New Year. |
Long before Sir Stamford Raffles arrived and designated it a
Chinese enclave, the area southwest of the Singapore River had been settled by
merchants and farmers from China. As the influx of Chinese immigrants
continued, the new arrivals started businesses, established trade guilds and
built temples to thank the gods for their safe arrival in this new country. As
Chinatown grew it became overcrowded with residents sleeping in shifts in the
small living quarters above the shophouses and the flourishing of secret
societies, opium dens and brothels. For a glimpse into the lives of these early
immigrants visit the
Chinese
Heritage Centre.
Chinatown remained somewhat of a slum until the 1960s when the government began
construction of high-rise HDB apartments and relocated thousands of residents.
The least decrepit of the shophouses with their signature five-foot-wide
covered passageways were declared conservation buildings and most of Chinatown
underwent
extensive urban
renewal.
Today's Chinatown has been
sanitised
and gentrified, but is no less chaotic. The Chinatown Street
Market runs from morning to night and the narrow streets burst at the seams
with herbal medicine shops, massage parlours, antiques dealers and souvenir
shops selling fake silk cheongsams and Merlion magnets. The wet market in the
basement of the Chinatown Complex sells produce so fresh it's still flopping
and the shophouses have been converted into everything from boutique hostels
and guesthouses to architecture firms.
While
many people come to
Chinatown to worship at important religious sites like the
Buddha
Tooth Relic Temple or Hindu
Sri
Mariamman temple,
even
more come to eat. Chinatown is a food lover's paradise with
fabulous hawker fare at
Maxwell
Food Centre and shops selling delicacies from every region of China. Feast
on kaya toast, dim sum, roasted duck, spicy hotpot and some of the city's best
vegetarian fare. After 18:00 Smith Street becomes
"Food
Street" with footpath food stalls and outdoor seating.
 |
| At the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. |
The core of Chinatown is the one-way streets, many of them pedestrianised,
running between New Bridge and South Bridge Roads. The Chinatown Heritage
Centre is in the middle of Pagoda Street, the Sri Mariamman Temple is at the
end of Temple Street, and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is at the junction of
Sago Street and South Bridge Road. The Chinatown Street Market runs between
them along Trengganu Street and spills over into any extra space. East of South
Bridge Road is Club Street and Ann Siang Hill which has been taken over by
trendy boutiques, wine bars and European-style cafes. It can also be used as a
shortcut to Telok Ayer Street, one of Chinatown's oldest thoroughfares and site
of century-old temples including Thian
Hock Keng. To the southwest you'll find heritage hotels along Keong Saik Road
and Duxton Hill, a formerly seedy area that's become the new hotspot for art
galleries, specialty boutiques and trendy restaurants.
Chinatown is always photogenic, but puts on an even more spectacular showing
for Chinese
New Year and the Mid-Autumn
Festival. Keep an eye out for holiday markets, stage shows and dragon
dances through the streets. The seventh lunar month, usually August or
September, is Hungry
Ghost Month with food offerings left on footpaths and paper money burnt at
temples to appease angry spirits.
Best served by the Chinatown (NE4/DT19) SMRT station, the stations of Telok
Ayer (DT18) to the east and Outram Park (EW16/NE3) to the southwest
are also within walking distance. Walk north on New Bridge or South Bridge
Roads and you'll reach Singapore's scenic Quays district that serve as a buffer
between Chinatown and the historic centre of the city, while heading east on
Cross Street or Upper Pickering Street will take you to Singapore's financial
district, beyond which you'll find Marina Bay.
Singapore Quays
The Singapore River is of great historical importance and its mouth is,
supposedly, where Sir Stamford Raffles landed in 1819 before signing the treaty
that resulted in the establishment of a British colony. The river flourished as
the main artery into Singapore and, in the 1840s, the area now known as Boat
Quay was established as an enclave for the Chinese coolies and traders
flooding into the new city. The development continued upriver with Clarke
Quay, named for Singapore's second colonial governor, as a spot to moor the
trading barges and Robertson Quay for shipyards and warehouses.
 |
| Wander the Quays before the hordes arrive. |
Many of the British East India Company's most valuable
products — rubber, tin, rice, spices — were traded and transported right on the
Singapore River. Though it was never quite the Chinese pirate-ridden port
portrayed in
Pirates
of the Caribbean: At World's End, the Singapore River of the 19th century
was certainly a rough place with squalid living quarters, opium dens and secret
society headquarters.
It wasn't until the 1960s that the Singapore River ceased to be a hub of
commerce as ships moved to the new high-tech ports outside the city centre. The
bumboats disappeared, the shophouses were abandoned, and the city was left with
a filthy, lifeless river. The
clean-up
of the Singapore River was spearheaded by Lee Kwan Yew, the city-state's first
prime minister, and declared a success in 1987. Around this time the
dilapidated shophouses of Boat Quay were declared a conservation area and the
restoration work began that would eventually convert them into watering holes
for expat bankers and cafes for their families.
Boat Quay is nearest the mouth of the Singapore River and looks across the
water to colonial beauties like the Old Parliament. The restaurants and bars
that now occupy the historic shophouses have such impressive views it's
possible to look past the high prices and pushy service. Boat Quay is walking
distance from the financial centre of Raffles Place.
Nick Leeson, the British
broker blamed for the collapse of Barings Bank, was a regular at Harry's Bar. A
block back from Boat Quay, along Circular Road, you'll find more reasonably
priced bars and restaurants, though obviously without the river views.
Clarke Quay has been developed as a sort of adult playground with international
restaurants, trendy nightclubs and a reverse-bungee ride. Depending on your
tastes, the crayon-box colours and lilypad umbrellas that came with its
multimillion dollar makeover are cute or completely absurd. Continuing up the
river is Roberston Quay, the mellowest of the Quays and a great place for a
family meal or a quiet glass of wine. The culinary offerings are as diverse as
the expats who live in the expensive riverside condos and include Italian,
Japanese, French and Australian restaurants. Robertson Quay is a favourite for
Sunday brunch and, depending on the schedule at the
DBS
Arts Centre, dinner and a show.
 |
| Don't forget to look up. |
Though the Quays rank high for ambience they're low on actual attractions,
and one of the few worth its price tag is the boat tour of the Singapore River.
There are several points where you can hop onboard and the tour cruises through
all three Quays up to the Merlion at the mouth of the river. Thanks to Marina
Barrage (which you can visit out near Gardens by the Bay), the water you'll be
floating on is all fresh -- part of Singapore's catchment system for fresh
water. Merlion
Park -- the home of Singapore's bizarre half-lion half-fish mascot --
continues to be a big draw and the surrounding area has flourished with expensive
waterfront bars and seafood restaurants.
For both Robertson and Clarke Quays, the best SMRT station is Clarke Quay
(NE5) station, but for Boat Quay, Raffles Place (NS26/EW14) is
marginally closer to the eastern end of it. While it's possible to walk from
Boat Quay to Marina Bay, most opt for taking the SMRT, but what is within easy
walking distance is the historic centre of Singapore which we'll refer to as
Raffles after the namesake hotel that sits in the midst of it.
Raffles
Also known as Singapore's downtown core or civic district, this area
houses the vast majority of banks, multinational corporations, museums,
historical sites and government offices past and present. There are also enough
shopping centres and five-star hotels to rival Orchard Road. This area north of
the Singapore River is where Sir Stamford Raffles began to build Singapore as a
British trading post and much of the colonial architecture, though now
dwarfed by skyscrapers, has survived.
 |
| Raffles woz here. |
A statue of Raffles has been erected at the best-guess of where he landed
in 1819 and is surrounded by some of the oldest surviving buildings like the
Victoria Theatre and Old Parliament House — now an art gallery. The open field
to the north, now known as The Padang, was the Brit's cricket grounds,
while to the west lies Fort Canning -- a hilltop park and garden well worth a
few hours of your time -- it's so pretty Raffles built his house there.
The Raffles Hotel conjures up more colonial nostalgia with its
white-gloved staff and high teas. We suspect there's been a significant price
hike since Somerset Maugham and Ernest Hemingway penned their tales of life in
the colonies over cocktails, but the Long Bar remains a major tourist draw as
the home of the Singapore
Sling. Singapore's earliest Christian churches are scattered around the
central area, but you can't miss the sky-high steeple of St
Andrew's Cathedral beside City Hall SMRT.
Immediately to the north of the Padang, towering to some 226 metres, is Swissotel
the Stamford, one of Southeast Asia's tallest hotels. Its New Asia Bar on
the 71st floor has unbeatable views and happy hour specials. Head east and, at
165 metres, the Singapore
Flyer edged out the London Eye as the world's highest ferris wheel when it
opened in 2008. Cross over the bridge to the south of the Flyer and you'll
reach the Marina Bay Sands complex, a three-tower hotel and casino with an
open-air park balanced on top. Beyond that lie the spectacular Gardens
by the Bay and Marina
Barrage.
There are many places in central Singapore to splurge on a meal, including the
new celebrity chef restaurants at Marina Bay Sands, but cheap meals are still
possible at hawker centres like Gluttons
Bay. Budget accommodation is, however, completely absent. While we wouldn't
suggest staying in the area unless you have an expense account -- and even
then, shop
online for a discounted rate -- the colonial walking tour and a visit to
one of the world-class museums are a must.
While City Hall SMRT (NS25/EW13) is arguably the centre, Esplanade
(CC3), Promenade (CC4/DT15) and Marina Bay (CC1/DT16) are
convenient for, well, Esplanade, the Flyer and Marina Bay respectfully. To the
west Bras Basah (CC2) and the major interchange at Dhoby Ghaut
(NS24/NE6/CC1) are convenient for Fort
Canning and Orchard Road, the latter being the epicentre of Singapore's
high-end shopping scene.
Orchard
An endless stretch of shopping centres, chain
restaurants, and upscale hotels, Orchard Road is the shopaholic heart of
Singapore. The name originates from the fruit and spice orchards that lined the
street during colonial days, but the plants died and the district was
redeveloped as a commercial and residential zone for Singapore's elite — an apt
description even today.
 |
| Glass and brass on Orchard Road. |
Not a city that clings to its past too tightly, authorities demolished the
colonial buildings during Singapore's boom to make way for modern mega-malls. A
few historical buildings remain including the Istana
and the sprawling Thai Embassy — but no one goes to Orchard Road for a history
lesson: it's all about the shopping.
Orchard Road is a shrine to consumerism. It measures 2.2 kilometres
long, yet there is hardly a gap between the malls. By our count, it's home to
at least 25 shopping centres, 15 five-star hotels, four multi-screen
cineplexes, three private hospitals, 13 Starbucks, and hundreds of places to
eat (and, somehow, they're always busy).
Like many things in Singapore, Orchard Road is not cheap. There are more Dolce
& Gabbana boutiques than dollar stores and Continental breakfast at the
Hilton or Marriott costs more than a dorm
bed in Little India. The best season for bargain-hunting is during the
much-hyped Great
Singapore Sale in June and July. The sales are nowhere as spectacular as
the massive crowds would suggest, but you may get lucky and find a deal. Think
free memory card and carrying case rather than 50% off.
Most malls offer a "tourist
privilege card" year-round that gets you small discounts at certain
shops and a free coffee — bring your passport and collect it at the information
counter. Remember that international tourists can also claim a tax
refund on purchases over S$100, excluding meals and hotels.
 |
| How the other half life: Open day at The Istana. |
Factoring in a couple of breaks inside the air-con comfort of a mall, it's
possible to walk Orchard end to end in a couple of hours. Orchard is very
pedestrian-friendly with benches, crosswalks, underpasses, and wide footpaths
to accommodate the hordes of shoppers.
Change pace with a visit to the Botanic
Garden at the far western extreme (actually beyond the end) of Orchard
Road. While it's straightforward to walk from here to Little India via
Bencoolen Street, most will opt for catching the SMRT. Orchard is served by
three SMRT stations -- Dhoby Ghaut (NS24/NE6/CC1) to the east, Somerset
(NS23) roughly in the centre or Orchard (NS22) to the west.
Little India
With its throngs of people, chaotic commerce and pungent smells, a visit
to Little India will quickly dispel any notions of a sterile Singapore.
In fact, if you added a few free-range cows and honking rickshaws to the mix,
it could pass as the real deal.
 |
| Singapore need not be too pricey. |
Historically, Little India was an extension of Chulia Kampong, the
Indian "ethnic quarter" established during British colonial rule. As
the original enclave became overcrowded, the South Indian Tamil population
moved to this riverside area, where they farmed tropical fruit and raised
livestock. While the only trace of these agricultural activities is in street
names like "Buffalo Road", the Hindu temples, sari shops, classical
Indian music and dance centres, and vegetarian-friendly restaurants remain in
full force.
Though Singapore's official policy has shifted from ethnic segregation to
racial harmony, Little India continues to serve as a gathering point for Singapore's
Indian community as well as new arrivals from India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and
Nepal. Nearly all of Singapore's construction is done by temporary workers from
these South Asian countries and they swarm to Little India by the thousand
every Sunday, their one day off.
Little India is also a culinary
paradise featuring the best of each Indian region's cuisine.
Feast on rich mutton curry from Kashmir, the vegetarian staple of dosa masala
from Tamil Nadu, coconut seafood from Kerala, and browse the ingredients to
make them at the wet markets and spice shops. With Bollywood music and burning
incense in the background, the small shops are an exotic alternative to Orchard
Road; you'll find Ayurvedic medicine, mobile phones, glittering saris and
souvenir T-shirts just for starters.
 |
| Tradition meets modernity. |
Midway between Little India and Bras Basah you'll find
Waterloo Street, where
the historic Hindu and Buddhist temples draw so many worshippers that the road
has become pedestrianised with palm-readers and incense sellers spilling onto
the footpaths. The surrounding area has a high concentration of budget hotels
and vegetarian restaurants, and
Sim
Lim Square electronics mall is a few minutes away on Rochor Canal Road.
Near the start of Serangoon Road where it crosses the Rochor Canal are two
Little India landmarks:
Tekka
Centre and the
Little
India Arcade. Tekka Centre is sensory overload, with a wet
market, cooked food and traditional clothing. Across the street from Tekka, the
Little India Arcade is a maze of shops selling everything Indian from statues
of deities to handmade sweets like jalebi and gulab jamun.
A block east is the
backpacker
quarter along Dunlop Street, where cheap bars, convenience stores and
internet cafes have cropped up to fill the needs of international travellers. A
few hostels can also be found on the quieter outskirts of Little India and
midrangers like
Perak
Hotel are scattered throughout the area. Be wary of budget hotels with
banners displaying rates under S$100 — much of their business is by the hour
and the cockroaches are complimentary.
Continuing along Serangoon Road, the
Sri
Veeramakaliamman temple with its intricate roof is one of the most
important Hindu temples in Little India and not to be missed. Pooja (offerings)
are scheduled at 08:00, 12:00, 18:30 and 21:00. A few blocks past the temple
take a right at Syed Alwi Road to reach renowned 24-hour
Mustafa
Centre, the best place for in Singapore to change money, book a flight, and
buy absolutely anything from saffron to a new watch.
Even further north along Serangoon Road is the
Sri
Srinivasa Perumal temple, dedicated to the god Vishnu and best known as the
starting point for the annual Thaipusam festival. The yummy but out-of-place
French Stall restaurant is a few doors down then it's a short detour to the
Buddhist
Leong
San See and Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya temples on Race Course Road.
 |
| Breakfast of champions. |
Little India pulsates with sights, sounds and colours 365 days a year, but
puts on an even more spectacular showing for holidays and festivals. In January
or February is the Thaipusam
festival which commemorates the birth of Lord Murugan, a Hindu deity of
great importance in South India. Devotees undertake a pilgrimage through the
streets of Singapore performing acts of devotion: some carry pots of milk or
baskets of fruit, but the gruesome highlight is devotees who skewer their faces
and carry large, ornate kavadis piercing their chests and backs -- and that's
after they've walked on hot coals, barefoot, at the Sri Srinivasa Perumal
Temple.
The biggest event on the Hindu calendar is Deepavali,
"the festival of lights", which celebrates the triumph of good over
evil. This festival is held in mid-October or November (the exact date is
determined by the cycles of the moon) and you'll find Little India bursting at
its seams with festive decorations, cultural shows and holiday bazaars.
The two most convenient SMRT stations are Little India (NE7) and Farrer
Park (NE8) both along the western side of Little India. A third station, a
10-minute walk away, is Lavender (EW11) which is closer to arguably
Singapore's most enthralling area, Kampong Glam.
Kampong Glam
Just east of the city centre, Bugis and Kampong Glam is a
neighbourhood with one foot in the past. The old and new are juxtaposed on
every corner with business hotels beside street markets and the crowds on the
footpaths and MRT are as likely to be on their way to the mosque as they are to
the mall.
 |
| Sultan Mosque after dark. |
Bugis is named for the Bugis tribe, seafaring people from
Indonesia reputed to dabble in piracy, who came to Singapore in the early 19th
century to trade and established kampongs (villages) in this area. After the
arrival of the British one of these settlements,
Kampong Glam, was
designated the home for wealthy Muslims, including Malay royalty and Arab
merchants, who built the
Istana
Kampong Glam palace and
Sultan
Mosque — two magnificent buildings that still stand today.
In the post-WW2 era Bugis became a centre for an entirely different type of
trade —
sex work.
Fuelled by sailors on shore leave, Bugis Street gained a reputation for sleaze
with squalid bars, brothels and transsexual shows. The party didn't last long:
Old Bugis Street was razed in the mid-80s to make way for the new MRT, but its
sordid history is immortalised by Paul Theroux's novel
Saint
Jack and the film of the same name. Needless to say, this story of an
American pimp trying to do business on the mean streets of Singapore in the
1970s was initially banned by the local government.
The sleaze is long gone, but Bugis still has an
eclectic assortment of attractions. Squeeze into
the
Bugis
Street Market to shop for cheap souvenirs, read a newspaper at the modern
National
Library, or feast on
murtabak
(stuffed flat bread) and
teh
tarik (frothy milk tea) at one of the Halal Malay restaurants. Arab
Street remains a centre for contemporary Muslim culture with Persian carpet
stores, hookah bars and the call to prayer sounding out from the Sultan Mosque.
Hip Haji Lane is the haunt
of Singapore's counterculture kids and the five-foot way is lined with
independent boutiques, tattoo studios and artsy cafes that double as bars after
dark. By Singapore standards, this is a refreshingly hip area.
 |
| Not much left of the Kallang Gas Works. |
Towards the eastern extreme, along Beach Road, you'll reach the Golden
Mile Complex -- think of it as all of Thailand crammed into a mall and
you'll get the idea. Keep heading east and you can cross the Rochor River to
reach what was once the Kallang Gasworks, but today parkland, cycling tracks
and sleepy cafes.
Kampong Glam is best served by three SMRT stations -- Bugis (EW12/DT14)
to the south west, Lavender (EW11) to the north, or, a 10-minute walk
away over the highway, Nicoll Highway (CC5).
Geylang and beyond
Forget what you've seen downtown or along Orchard Road — this is genuine
Singapore. In Geylang the shops sell more sandals than high heels, a hawker
dish still costs S$3, and durian is not a dirty word. The area is largely
residential so, with the exception of their arrival or departure from Changi
airport, few visitors venture this far east. Depending on your perspective,
East Singapore's minor attractions like markets and parks are either a bore or
a relief compared to the ultra-modern city centre.
 |
| The Geylang skyline. |
Rent a bike or take a really long walk at
East
Coast Park which stretches 15 kilometres along Singapore's southeast coast
all the way to the airport. Most people stay out of the water due to its
questionable cleanliness, but that doesn't stop people from picnicking on the
beach or feasting on fresh, affordable seafood at the
East
Coast Lagoon Hawker Centre.
East Singapore is also home to colourful
heritage neighbourhoods worth a visit for their
architecture and food. Historically,
Geylang was the designated area for Singapore's
ethnic Malay population and their presence remains with the Malay Cultural
Village and Geylang Serai Wet Market. During the month of Ramadan the area
comes alive with night bazaars selling curries and kueh (sweets) once the
fasting hours are finished. In an odd mix, Geylang is also Singapore's red
light district, it's pretty tame by southeast Asian standards though, and the
Vietnamese food is great!
Katong
was once the home of Singapore's wealthy Peranakan merchants who built mansions
along the coast. Due to land reclamation they no longer have sea views, but the
beautiful terrace houses with elaborately embellished facades remain. Look for
them around Joo Chiat Road. Katong is also known for its variation of laksa, a
spicy seafood noodle soup.
If you don't mind being a 15-minute MRT ride from the city centre, Eastern
Singapore is home to good value hostels like
Betelbox
and
Fern
Loft.
The most convenient SMRT to Geylang is
Paya Lebar (EW8/CC13) to the west or
Eunos (EW7) to the east
but it is a good 20 minute walk from either to Joo Chiat Road.
 |
| Grab a quick bite at BK Eating House. |
Orientation
As most hotels and cafes offer WiFi, dedicated internet cafes have
become scarce across Singapore. If you have a smartphone, prepaid sim cards
can be purchased both at the airport and at minimarts throughout town.
International access ATMs are just about everywhere, though most
frequently in shopping complexes and MRT stations.
Singapore Visitor's Centre is a wonderful resource with events listings,
maps, brochures and computers that are free to use. It's located at the
junction of Orchard and Cairnhill Road and open 09:30-22:30 daily.
The Singapore General Hospital near Outram
Park MRT is the city's largest and has a walk-in clinic and travel clinic while
Raffles Hospital, one of
Singapore's finest medical facilities, is located beside Bugis MRT station.
Location: Trailhead for Kalalau Trail at end of Kuhio Highway (Hwy. 56) in Ha'ena State Park; Kalalau and Miloli‘i Valleys also accessible by kayak from May 15 through September 7. Nu‘alolo Kai accessible for day use by commercial boat tours or by private boats.
If feeling adventurous, head out on a snorkelling trip, explore one of the many
islands off the southern coast, or rent a motorbike and just go exploring.
While prices drop during the monsoon, the island either turns into wet sand or
red mud. Fair weather can still be had – but don't expect it.
A stone's throw to the south of Khao San is one of Bangkok's other most famous roads,
Ratchadamnoen, which was built by King Rama V in 1899 to connect the Grand
Palace to Dusit
Palace. In a roundabout at the centre of this 10-lane road and not far from
Khao San is Democracy
Monument, an imposing symbol of Thailand's switch to a constitutional
monarchy in the 1930s that has since become more symbolic of the Thai people's
struggle for democracy. Pro-democracy Thai demonstrators perished here at the
hands of Thai military in 1973, 1992 and 2010.
The checkered history of Ko Phi Phi took a tragic turn in 2004 when the Asian
tsunami lashed its shores. In the wake of the devastation, the balance of
power seemed to shift as plans were revived to assert government control of the
island and restore its status as a national park, allowing only careful and
controlled development. 
