Ko Chang travel guide, Thailand

Sometimes called the "Beast of the East" thanks to its sheer mass and location in the eastern Gulf of Thailand near Cambodia, Ko Chang might just be the quintessential Thai island destination. From breathtaking mountains to idyllic beaches, hippy hangouts to salubrious resorts, and traditional fishing villages to neon nightlife, "Elephant Island" truly has something for everyone.

Some say that Ko Chang's name derives from its shape on a map that somewhat resembles the head of an elephant. Others claim it's due to the vast inland mountains that, apparently, resemble an elephant lying down. But the moniker most likely comes from a local legend that tells of a certain rebellious domesticated elephant (the animals are not indigenous to Ko Chang) whose three baby elephants drowned while trying to accompany her on a long swim to the mainland. As the legend has it, the babies transformed into three rocks off the northern coast that can still be seen today.

Whatever the true origins of the name, Ko Chang is most certainly a beast -- Phuket and Ko Samui are the only Thai islands that are bigger. Most of its 217 square kilometres remains unspoiled inland rainforest. The tallest of eight notable waterfalls, Khlong Neung, cascades down a 120-metre-high cliff. The island's highest peak, Khao Salak Phet, stands imposingly at 744 metres tall. Mongooses and macaques roam the jungle among an abundance of birds, including the majestic great hornbill, reptiles and other wildlife. Dolphins can sometimes be spotted off the southeast coast.

Despite its formidable rainforest, Ko Chang is most certainly a developed island. Long gone are the days when intrepid backpackers crashed on empty beaches. Today, Ko Chang is home to hundreds of places to stay, with new developments popping up every month. Every inch of Haad Sai Khao (White Sand Beach) has been filled in with concrete hotel blocks, convenience stores, tacky bars and tourist trinket shops, with Khlong Prao and Kai Bae gradually following suit.

Even so, Ko Chang has a long way to go before reaching the frenzied levels of development found on its larger cousin, Phuket. Its vast terrain and the fact that it can only be reached by car ferry have seemingly kept the building projects from getting too out of hand. On the quiet east coast, traditional fishing life continues in the tiny villages of Dan Mai, Salak Khok and Salak Phet, and a 10-minute walk from some of the western beaches brings you to picturesque fields of pomelo, banana and rubber trees.

First settled by Chinese traders and Thai and Khmer fishermen, Ko Chang was the focal point of two tragic historical events. The first, which is glorified by Thais, was the sinking of a Thai warship, the Thonburi, in Salak Phet Bay during a 1941 battle with French naval forces. The second, which most Thais never talk about, were the supposedly Thai government-sanctioned sinkings of rickety vessels carrying Vietnamese refugees, or "boat people", in the 1980s. The island remained quiet into the ‘90s when large-scale tourism finally took hold.

Ko Chang's almost-white sand beaches don't quite achieve the sparkle of some of the more spectacular islands down south, but they're no slouch either. While Haad Sai Khao is the largest and widest stretch of sand, the clearest water and most irresistibly "tropical" settings can be found further south in places like Lonely Beach and Bang Bao.

Off the sand, activities include snorkelling and diving trips to nearby coral reefs, jungle treks to waterfalls and mountain peaks, elephant rides and motorbiking adventures to the stunning southeast coast. If all this isn't enough, 51 more islands await in the Ko Chang archipelago, including Ko Kut and Ko Maak.

Orientation
An upside-down U-shaped road runs from Salak Phet on the southeast coast, up past the sleepy eastern shore and the two main ferry piers in the north, then down the length of the developed west coast all the way to Ao Bang Bao in the southwest, where boats can be caught for Ko Maak, Ko Kut and other islands.

There is no road connecting Ao Bang Bao directly to Salak Phet; motorbiking from one end to the other takes between two and three hours without stopping. A partial connector road was built several years ago but the project was abandoned before it could complete the loop.

Use extreme caution when motorbiking or driving on Ko Chang, particularly on the steep and treacherous switchback roads that connect Khlong Son to Haad Sai Khao, Kai Bae to Lonely Beach, and Salak Khok to Long Beach. With numerous hairpin turns high on the cliffs there is little room for mistake. Even on straighter sections, minibuses and songthaews often barrel down hills at breakneck speeds.

Most of the beaches are on the west coast, and each has built up with a distinctive atmosphere.

Khlong Son has a local flavour; travellers usually only stay here if seeking peace and quiet on its sheltered bay, or along a scenic inland valley road. South of that, Haad Sai Khao is by far Ko Chang's most developed area. It's home to countless characterless resorts, but also some interesting budget and midrange accommodation on the beach's quieter northern end. The main drag is a tacky swirl of souvenir shops, convenience stores and pubs, some of which have a seedy element.

Continuing south, the local village of Chai Chet almost feels like a typical mainland Thai town, with a motorbike dealer, hardware store, butcher, small supermarket and night market lining its not-so-attractive main road. The town's northern section has a string of neon pink bars where some of the resident expat men can be found drinking their nights away, though a decent beach is also found in this vicinity.

The road then tapers into Khlong Prao, which hosts a few kilometres of great beaches that are gradually becoming more developed. This is also where you'll find a hidden inland shanti-town where many low-wage Cambodian workers live. A non-profit school, Study Buddies, meets the needs of local children -- you might consider stopping by to donate during your stay. A large number of traveller-oriented services and restaurants are found along the main road, especially towards the south of Khlong Prao.

The restaurants and travel offices become more densely packed in Kai Bae, a favourite of families and couples, including no shortage of mainland Europeans, Scandinavians and Russians. Some of the island's best international food can be scored here, and though narrow, the beach is lovely.

After a tight pinch in the headland road that's sure to make some butts squirm, Lonely Beach ushers in a more "out there" feel that attracts budget backpackers and Bob Marley worshipers. The small beach is also excellent, though most seem to stay here for the affordable bungalows and party scene. A 10-minute walk south of Lonely Beach village lies Ao Bailan, which makes up for its mostly rocky coast with a pleasantly quiet atmosphere suited to families, flashpackers and backpackers who appreciate a good night's sleep.

Beyond Bailan lies Ao Bang Bao, a picturesque bay and former fishing village that has now almost entirely switched to tourism as its chief industry. A 700 metre-long pier juts out into the teal water, and some interesting places to stay are found both on the pier and the rugged peninsula that forms the bay's eastern half. To the west of the pier is Khlong Kloi, a tranquil beach that's a favourite of hippies and long stayers.

Most of the island's eastern coastline is made up of rocks and mangroves, though a few isolated beaches can be discovered if you poke around. We highly recommend motorbiking all the way down to the charming villages of Salak Khok and Salak Phet. The dirt road to Long Beach is one of the bumpiest we've ever ridden, but it's also one of the most breathtakingly scenic. If you seek some serious quietude, a handful of low-key homestays and bungalow joints are also found here.

ATMs and currency exchange booths are scattered throughout all of the island's major centres, with full-on bank branches found in Haad Sai Khao. A quality international medical clinic run by Bangkok Hospital is located between Haad Sai Khao and Khlong Prao. They charge a minimum of 4,000 baht even for something minor, though your travel insurance should cover this. If you're dumb enough to travel without insurance, the Koh Chang Hospital in Dan Mai on the east coast will be cheaper, and a smaller, less expensive medical clinic is also located in Khlong Prao. The island's central police station is found in Dan Mai, with tourist police boxes scattered around the west coast.

Ko Chang experiences a severe monsoon season from July to October. Some resorts close during these months, while others scale down to skeleton staffs. On the other hand, if you don't mind some rain and a very quiet atmosphere, discounts of up to 50% off high season rates are readily available.

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Chiang Mai travel guide, Thailand

Thailand's northern capital, Chiang Mai is the country's second most-visited city, yet in terms of size it does not remotely compare to Bangkok. With its smaller size and population, Chiang Mai has a lot in its favour for tourists and travellers alike, with the centre of town packed with glittering wats, excellent restaurants and expansive shopping markets all of which are easily taken in on foot.

If Thai temples are your thing, then Chiang Mai has a lot to offer -- the hill-top Wat Doi Suthep is the crown jewels, but the old city is packed with a vivid collection of traditional Thai temples, with Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Chiang Man being three of the true standouts -- there's even a developing "monk chat" scene. The city's temples and Lanna architecture are so popular in fact that one of Chiang Mai's most luxurious hotels (with some controversy) modelled itself on one.

The city is also home to some excellent museums, with both a museum district developing within the heart of the Old City and the long-running National Museum sitting outside the centre of town. Chiang Mai is also as much a living museum with sleepy back lanes lined with attractive traditional houses and plenty of markets to explore.

Home to the prestigious Chiang Mai University, the city has quite a cosmopolitan feel when compared to other northern Thai provinces and it has a lively entertainment scene accompanied by some of the best eating in northern Thailand -- this is not a town you'll go hungry in.

Most famous for its khao soi, Chiang Mai also delivers solid Northern Thai cuisine both at a street and market level and in its burgeoning selection of more upmarket restaurants. Thanks to its proximity to both Burma and Laos there are even more foods to try.

Accommodation-wise, Chiang Mai has an outstanding selection of options, from friendly budget guesthouses through to luxurious hotels and resorts. In the Old City area along you can barely throw a plate of somtam without hitting a guesthouse.

By northern Thai standards, Chiang Mai has a pretty comprehensive light-life scene, with everything from trendy riverside bars with live music through to grungy student bars and expat pubs. There's also a lively scene primarily aimed at helping backpackers meet more backpackers -- not quite mini Khao San Road, but not far off either.

But most foreign holiday-makers find themselves in Chiang Mai not for the temples nor the food, nor even the entertainment scene, but rather for the hill-tribe trekking. For decades Chiang Mai has formed the trekking base of northern Thailand -- and while there are some excellent tour companies in the city, there remain a number of shoddy operators -- be sure to do your research before heading into the hinterland.

Many travellers are now opting to commence their treks further afield in Mae Hong Son, Pai or Soppong (amongst others) where the tourist numbers are lower and the perceived experience more "authentic".

For those who choose to stay in the city, other popular activities include taking a Thai cooking course, a river cruise, learning a bit of Thai or maybe flying through the jungle.

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Ko Tao travel guide, Thailand

Cashew shaped Ko Tao, or Turtle Island, is one of Thailand's top diving locations, with plenty of amazing dive sites within easy reach of the Gulf of Thailand destination. Whale sharks are seasonal visitors and this is probably one of the few places in the world where you can see these gentle giants while scuba diving. But Ko Tao also has plenty to offer non-divers, with an array of non-water based activities such as hiking and yoga. Those willing to escape from the congested diver hotspots are rewarded with gorgeous beaches, great viewpoints and hospitable locals.

But it hasn't always been snorkels and sunscreen here. In the past, Ko Tao has been a pirate's hideout, a layover for fishermen, a prison and a badly-kept hardcore backpacker secret. While some say the island took its name from its turtle shape, others say it was named for the turtles that used to breed plentifully in its waters. Today, the turtles largely go elsewhere and instead thousands of recreational divers and other tourists flock here annually. The island is ranked number two worldwide for the issuing of PADI certificates. (Top spot is held by Cairns, Australia.)

Western travellers first stumbled on Ko Tao in the 1980s, leading to the first rickety bamboo bungalows being thrown up. Within a decade, the island became a well-established alternative to Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui, thanks to its fine snorkelling and the cheap huts. In more recent years, development has exploded, with more than 100 resorts, around 40 diving schools and many other related businesses now operating on the island. Accommodation now ranges from semi-budget beach shacks through to boutique resorts and villas meaning there is just about something for everyone.

The rapid development has transformed Mae Haad and Sairee from traditional wooden villages with dirt roads to bustling tourist centres. Despite this, Ko Tao does retain a certain rustic charm versus Samui, Pha Ngan and Phuket, and visitors can still find picture book Thailand tucked away on this small island.

The busiest times of year are Christmas-New Year and July-August, when booking ahead is strongly recommended as it can be next to impossible to find a budget bed otherwise. Whale shark sightings occur outside the peak times, typically between March and May and a few in September and October too. Budget accommodation also books up quickly directly after adjacent Ko Pha Ngan's Full Moon Party, when partiers arrive here after their break there.

The ongoing violence in Thailand's deep south and political uncertainties in the capital have contributed to a drop off in arrivals to the island, though neither of these issues have much to do with Ko Tao. The island is generally very safe and with its great variety of activities and places to stay, there's never been a better time to visit.

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Ko Samui travel guide, Thailand

Back in the days when backpackers to Southeast Asia were first discovering Ko Samui in the 1970s, a basic thatched hut with running water and electricity was considered luxury. Now Ko Samui is home to some of Thailand's best luxury resorts and in the popularity stakes is surpassed only by Phuket.

With an international airport, a mass of ferry connections and close to 500 hotels and guesthouses, this is not somewhere to come to glimpse a corner of the Thai kingdom untouched by tourism development. One good thing about tourism development on the island is the written law that no building may be taller than the nearest coconut palm; this means that, unlike Phuket, tall apartment blocks and hotels do not ruin the skyline. The highest building is about four storeys high, and bungalow-type accommodation is still the style that is most abundant.

Samui and its neighbouring islands were first inhabited by Malay fishermen from the mainland as well as immigrants from Southern China who took advantage of a surrounding sea teeming with fish. The Chinese influence is still evident on Samui, especially at Fisherman's Village, where rows of Chinese shophouses sit next to European-influenced buildings and create a village atmosphere. The island is home to several Chinese temples and Chinese New Year is celebrated with a bang, literally, at the temple near the Mae Nam walking street market.

Despite today's crowds, if you're hunting for white-sand beaches, turquoise waters and all-day sun, Samui can be a fine choice and our Ko Samui travel guide should help you to find the best beach, guesthouse or hotel for your needs. Use Samui as a base to explore the neighbouring islands of Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, as well as the Ang Thong National Marine Park. The islands and the park are both only a short boat or ferry trip away.

With a population of about 40,000 residents, and more than a million visitors a year, Ko Samui's inadequate infrastructure is at breaking point. While at the turn of the millennium development continued unabated, over the past five years there seems to be more control over where and how development happens. Local government has spent big on improving infrastructure such as roads and drainage after the floods of November 2010 and March 2011 proved that there was a need for drastic improvement. Resorts team together to maintain the beaches, and after storms, they quickly clean up and repair any damage.

There is very little recorded history of Samui, and there are two schools of thought on how the name came about. The first is derived from a commonly found tree called a "mui". The second and more popular theory is that the name comes from the Chinese word "saboey", meaning 'safe haven', which it was to the original Chinese fishermen.

Before the crowds drag themselves out of bed, popular Chaweng and Lamai remain pretty, while on the north side, quieter Mae Nam has a growing reputation. Of course there are many other beaches worth investigating, such as Choeng Mon and Bophut, and quiet secluded bays in the west and south -- don't make the mistake of spending your entire Ko Samui sojourn on just the one stretch of sand.

Ko Samui has a large expat community, with the majority being from the UK, France, Germany, Scandinavia and Russia. The island has several good schools, and boasts the UK affiliated International School of Samui to cater to both expat kids as well as those of wealthier Thais. Many locals can speak a fair amount of English, being exposed to so many foreigners, and with tourism being the island's main income. Samui offers many modern conveniences, with supermarkets such as Tesco Lotus, Big C and Macro. The island has a bowling alley and cinema, five hospitals, and an abundance of optometrists, dentists and pharmacies. It does not at this stage have the large shopping malls of Phuket.

With all of these Western influences, some may consider Samui to no longer represent "real Thailand", but, like much of Thailand, a degree of Westernised development is part and parcel with the ever-changing Thai nation and, as everywhere in the country, pockets of a more traditional way of life remain. One only has to attend a buffalo fight, bird singing competition, or authentic muay Thai fight to see where the locals congregate in their free time.

Among all this development, some stunning resorts have appeared on the island. If budget is of no concern, then Samui has some terrific options for serious pampering -- and best of all you'll not need to leave the resort. For those on tighter budgets, bargains can be found in areas such as Mae Nam and Fisherman's Village.

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Ko Pha Ngan travel guide, Thailand

Although best known for the monthly full moon parties, which attract thousands of travellers from all over the globe, there is a lot more to stunning Ko Pha Ngan than getting trashed and passing out in the powder-soft white sand.

The mid-sized and quite mountainous island (it stretches over 168 sq km and 70% of its topography is mountainous jungle with the remainder beaches and coconut groves) is situated roughly a third of the way from Ko Samui to Ko Tao. The island's original inhabitants are believed to have been either sea gypsies, or have come from Pattani or Nakhon Si Thammarat and once they settled the island, the main established industries became fishing and coconut cultivation.

Today, the coconut and fishing industries are still going, but they've been surpassed in monetary value by tourism and while the original inhabitants may have been predominantly Muslim, the present day population is mostly Buddhist. This is in part due to the massive influx of labour from elsewhere in Thailand seeking work in the thriving tourist industry — the guy taking your dinner order is as likely to be from Roi Et as the island's capital, Thong Sala. Over 10,000 people permanently live on the island, with the majority concentrated around Thong Sala.

From the mid eighties onwards, Ko Pha Ngan's popularity has skyrocketed among backpackers and independent travellers who eschewed the more developed Ko Samui. This has been supported by the increasing awareness and popularity of the Full Moon Party. Nowadays, Ko Pha Ngan is in many areas moving away from its backpacker roots and attracting families and package tourists in droves as well.

Of course the most major attraction is still the legendary Full Moon Party on Haad Rin beach. This monthly happening is a drug- and booze-fuelled cavorting — and very commercial — hullabaloo, and while it had its origins in a very low key, personalised gathering, today, with package tours coming out from London solely to attend the party, it's a far cry from the days back then. The party often attracts in excess of twenty thousand people who dance and party away from the evening well into the next day.

But it's not exactly the group love-in you might be imagining — drugs for sale are almost as common as undercover police, rampant theft (both from unattended bungalows and passed out partiers on the beach) and violent and sexual assault are major concerns. Fatalities are more common than the English-language press in Thailand lets on.

That said, it's not all bad, and thousands upon thousands of people attend every month suffering no more than a headache the next day. To try to minimise the dangers, try to stay in control, if you are going to use drugs, don't leave them in your room or on your person and don't walk up to complete strangers asking to buy acid — you will get busted. Drugs are illegal in Thailand, the penalties are severe and don't bank on the assumption you'll be able to buy your way out of the police station. Use your guesthouse's safe to store your valuables and basically don't head out with anything you can't afford to lose.

In fact there seems to be many ways to skin a moon and don't be disappointed if your timetable doesn't coincide with the actual Full Moon party — there is after all the Half Moon Party, Dark Moon Party and various other excuses for a romp taking place throughout the month. If you're on Ko Pha Ngan for anything more than a couple of days, chances are there'll be a party somewhere.

The Full Moon Party takes place at Haad Rin Beach, but it isn't necessary to find accommodation there to attend the party, as every beach will run transport to the party on the evening — indeed many commute over from Ko Samui for the night.

But there's much more to this island than parties. It is ringed by over a dozen beaches — some with fine white sand that squeaks between your toes and others with a more grainy, yellow sand. Most of the beaches are reasonably easy to reach — the road network improves every year and few beaches are only reachable to boat. This ease of access means that it is far easier than it used to be to base yourself on one beach, but do day trips to others.

The south coast of Ko Pha Ngan, running from the island's capital at Ao Thong Sala, though Ban Tai and Ban Kai to Haad Rin and Haad Saikantang are the islands most exposed beaches. Facing south towards Ko Samui, the beaches are protected by an offshore reef and the waters are very shallow, making this an ideal option for travelling families with small kids. It's possible to walk almost the full stretch without leaving the beach (though you'll have to wade a small river at one stage) and there's a wide variety of bungalows and small hotels for the entire length.

The east coast, running from Haad Rin north to the twin bays of Thong Nai Pan Noi and Yai offer some of the most isolated beaches on the island. The drop-off from the beach tends to be sharper on these beaches and the swimming is consequently better. Bungalows range from rustic shacks on Than Sadet through to luxury villas on Thong Nai Pan Noi.

The north coast encompasses Bottle Beach — long a backpacker haven, and Chaloklam Bay — the island's main fishing port — and the epicentre of Ko Pha Ngan's small diving industry. The north coast is also home to the islet of Ko Ma off Mae Haad Beach. As with the south coast, the beaches are a bit more exposed.

The west coast, like the east, is riddled with small bays and secretish beaches. The southwest corner of the island, just before you reach Thong Sala has some terrific budget deals. Though the beaches on this coast feel isolated, they're actually relatively well connected to Thong Sala by road and the development reflects this.

As the road network has improved, so has the range of accommodation on Ko Pha Ngan. In part due to their being an international airport on nearby Ko Samui, this is no longer a destination of nothing more than thatch bungalows. Indeed if you've money to burn there's a growing supply of truly luxurious villas and resorts on offer but also a glut of characterless over-priced mid-range accommodation. Land developers are also having a bit of a feeding frenzy — with plots for sale all over the place. For the most part though, the accommodation is focused on backpacker and flashpacker bungalows and mid-range hotels and resorts.

Aside from the beach, Ko Pha Ngan has great potential for boat and fishing trips, elephant trekking, diving, ATV rides, zip lines and even kite-boarding as well as other watersports. There's a smattering of waterfalls, many detox and yoga centres and the island is fast becoming renowned for meditation retreats. On the east coast, you'll also find Sanctuary and the related Wellness Centre — famous around the world for its seven day fasting courses. But if all that is way too hectic, equally compelling for many is just spending a few weeks in a hammock, watching the sun rise and fall.

Weather wise, the best time to visit Ko Pha Ngan is during the hot, dry season from January to April. From May to September the island gets a little afternoon rain courtesy of the Southwest monsoon, but the weather is still enjoyable and the seas calm and clear. From October to December it gets both windy and wet thanks to the northeast monsoon. The crowds thin out then, however, making the island appealing to some travellers — on the downside the few unpaved roads left do deteriorate.

It's connected to Ko Samui, Ko Tao and Surat Thani by ferries — see the transport section for details on frequency and cost. If you're coming from Bangkok you can fly to the airport at Ko Samui and then get the boat, or there's a variety of train, bus and ferry combo tickets available. See our story How to get from Bangkok to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao for more information.

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Bangkok travel guide, Thailand

Set astride the majestic, churning Chao Phraya River, the Thai capital Bangkok represents all that is good and bad about an Asian megalopolis. Loved or loathed, it's a city with everything for some and nothing for others, and a place that almost every visitor to Thailand will find themselves in at some stage.

For many travellers, Bangkok, or Krungthep to most Thais (Krungthep mahanakhon amonratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok, popnopharat ratchathani burirom ubonratchaniwet mahasathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit to those who like to refer to places by their full name), is anything but charming on first impressions. But peel back its multitude of layers, and you may well grow to enjoy this fascinating city.

Yes, it's dirty and heavily polluted, and the traffic remains appalling despite two mass transit systems opening over the last few years. Glistening skyscrapers perpetually darken wooden slums and squats, while sparkling new Mercedes dodge food carts being pushed along the slow lane. Bangkok is a city of have and have-nots and the contrast can be alarming.

But the City of Angels harbours enough sights and experiences to keep travellers occupied for months -- some end up staying indefinitely -- with one of the best ways to grasp its splendour to simply wander through its colourful streets, where the pedestrian takes second place to the thousands of taxis, buses, motorbikes, tuk tuks, bicycles and private cars clogging the streets.

Many find it exhilarating, for rare are the quiet moments and rarer still are the moments when you fail to feel utterly alive. Prepare to dive into marvellous aromas drifting from food stalls interspersed with wafts of stinking canals and belching car exhausts.

Political unrest and violence in Bangkok in early 2010 left dozens dead and the city reeling. Peace was quickly restored by the military-backed government, but the fundamental issues that triggered the violence, involving a complex stand-off among Thailand's elites, have yet to be resolved and are likely to one day flare again. All is calm for now, however, and you should book your holiday with some confidence, while always keeping an eye on the news.

Bangkok has an excellent range of hotels and guesthouses. The Chao Phraya's banks are home to two of the best hotels in the world, the Oriental Hotel and the Peninsula Hotel, as well as many other five-star luxury spots, while the backpacker quarter of Khao San Road is overflowing with budget guesthouses and hostels.

Bangkok's shopping is renowned. While the malls here become ever more salubrious and high-end (you will feel downright grotty in some no matter how you dress up), markets remain places to snag bargains, either various knock-off items or original local designer goods that can be incredibly creative.

And when you're totally exhausted, in Bangkok you're in good hands: quite possibly, the world's best. Whether you drop into a shopfront foot massage place for an hour-long session of bliss or you go upmarket and book yourself into a spa for the works -- think manicure, pedicure, body scrub, facial, four-hand massage -- you'll get value for money and service that has a global reputation.

So do give Bangkok a decent chance. Don't let the smog and crowds distract you from what can be an invigorating and and intriguing city.

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Thailand_Temples and beaches

People say Thailand simply offers it all to travellers in a neat, great-value package -- whether you're an independent budget backpacker wanting to explore off the beaten track, or a well-heeled tourist looking for an exclusive slice of paradise.

Rough it while trekking through mist-shrouded mountains; be astounded by teeming aquatic life as you plunge into turquoise waters for a dip; or savour a romantic pool villa for a perfect luxury honeymoon -- you can do it all in the Land of Smiles.

Thailand has been on the international backpacker beat for decades now, and while backpackers are making the most of ever-increasing budget flights to Thailand, these days luxury travellers bolster the numbers too.

From the food and spas, to the temples and culture, Thailand is a land steeped in fascinating Buddhist history, catapulted into the present through fast-paced economic growth that kicked off in the 1960s.

It's true that more than 10 million tourists arrive here annually now, following the well-worn path of those before them. But there's a reason the crowds keep on coming.

The capital Bangkok offers glittering temples on the majestic Chao Phraya River, with shopping for both bargains and top-range designer items luring the masses as well.

It also plays home to the backpacking mecca of Khao San Road -- the epicentre of Southeast Asia's backpacking universe.

Take an elephant trek or hike to see ethnic minorities in cool, mountainous Chiang Mai, then take a flight down south to sip cocktails and sunbathe on the cococut-palm fringed southern islands of Phuket or Ko Samui.

Alternatively, enjoy the pulsing Full Moon Party on Ko Pha Ngan, or a spot of world-class diving off Ko Tao. History buffs will revel in Thailand's ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, and enjoy exploring somewhat more obscure Khmer ruins dotted around the kingdom's north and northeast.

Popular side trips from Bangkok include Ko Samet, just a few hours away by road and boat, while Kanchanaburi is home to the famed Bridge Over the River Kwai, popular waterfalls and the controversial Tiger Temple. Families are heading to quiet Ko Lanta in greater numbers too, while Krabi remains a favourite for island hoppers.

Thailand's southwest coast --including Khao Lak and Ko Phi Phi -- has fully recovered from the 2004 Asian tsunami and flung open its rebuilt doors to tourists again.

And if you want to find your own patch of secluded beach unmarked on maps during your vacation, or a winding stretch of spectacular, empty mountain highway, with a bit of effort you certainly can.

Sip a Beer Chang or Singha as you watch a sunset over the meandering Mekong in Nong Khai, explore the spectacular national parks of Nan, meditate in a forest wat in Isan, rejuvenate at an upmarket spa in historical Hua Hin, or pick up some of the challenging Thai language at any number of schools -- the possibilities are limitless. Thailand's strife-torn Muslim-majority south remains off nearly all tourists' itineraries these days, a shame as it's a beautiful area unique culturally to the rest of the kingdom.

Aside from sights to see, Thailand's world-renowned fiery cuisine -- the perfect antidote to Thailand's weather -- is an attraction in its own right. Savour delicious street food costing next-to-nothing or splurge on high-end royal cuisine, but no matter what you spend, it is always difficult to find a bad authentic Thai meal. Thailand's spas too are among the best in the world, and you can't beat wrapping up your day with a Thai massage on a whitesand beach.

Travelfish not only shows you Thailand's popular spots, but points you in the direction of its best-kept secrets and equips you with the knowledge you need -- from getting Thai visas to getting lost off the map -- to make up-to-the-minute decisions throughout your holiday in Thailand.

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Greater Singapore travel guide, Singapore

For the purposes of our little guide, Greater Singapore includes anywhere in this city-state that we don't cover elsewhere.

For most casual and first time visitors to Singapore, the main drawcards outside of downtown are the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari in the northern part of Singapore and Jurong Bird Park to the west. All three of these are absolutely world-class attractions and well worth the trip to the island's outer limits.

Greater Singapore is also home to many lesser-known but worthwhile points of interest, many with an outdoorsy appeal. Early risers and bird-watchers should have Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve on their shortlist, while those looking for a slice of Singapore in its natural state should check out MacRitchie Reservoir or Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, where monitor lizards and monkeys still roam free.

War buffs may want to visit the sombre Kranji War Cemetery and Memorial and travellers will children will enjoy a day at the Singapore Science Centre and Snow City. Outlying Kusu and St John's Islands are downright rustic compared to Sentosa and their decent beaches and picnic grounds are just a short ferry ride away.

Last but not least, consider a visit to one of Singapore's most unusual attractions, the stranger-than-words Haw Par Villa, or, if that's not your thing, there's always a tour of the Tiger Brewery complete with a tasting session.

A note on heading out into the Singapore "wilderness": Singapore is a very big small island — don't try to do too much in a day as you'll just end up exhausted. Pace yourself and you'll get far more out of your exploration.

Greater Singapore is largely residential and significantly less glamorous than downtown, and an excursion to a neighbourhood like Jurong West or Ang Mo Kio will give you greater insight into the life of average Singaporean than a day spent on Orchard Road.

The region is well served by the MRT system and public bus routes — an EZ-Link card will come in handy and pay for itself through discounts when transferring. To simplify getting to the zoo, there is a private shuttle service from central areas to the Zoo & Night Safari.

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Kangar travel guide, Malaysia

The capital of the strictly Muslim state of Perlis, Kangar isn't the bustling city most would expect of a state capital but instead has a countryside town feel to it, and is surrounded by fields and farms. The province is Malaysia's tiniest and is home to a variety of natural attractions as well as being culturally intriguing thanks to its location bordering Buddhist-majority Thailand to its north, Malaysia's Kedah state to its south and a small stretch of the Andaman coastline to its west.

The state makes an interesting little stop as you either head into or out of Malaysia, though most travellers tend to only see it as a transit point either to Pulau Langkawi or Thailand. It's easy to get around and is also cheaper than many other parts of Malaysia.

While Kangar may be the state's little capital, the royal family and Sultan have their residences in Arau, some 10km away. KTM's railway line runs through the state and eventually crosses into Thailand at Padang Besar, a small international border crossing south of the major Thai transport hub of Hat Yai.

Spectacular limestone outcroppings similar to those in Thailand rise from the flat rice paddies that stretch across much of Perlis' landscape. These outcroppings are part of the longest continuous limestone range in Southeast Asia, the Nakawan, which extends along the national border like a great wall.

Due to its close proximity to and historical relations with Siam, Thai culture is still very noticeable in Perlis, including in the architecture, local cuisine, the people's relaxed attitude to life, and even the language – most locals speak some Thai. People who live along the border often just walk past the immigration lines to visit family members on the other side -- formalities seem too much trouble.

Once you're in the capital, you'll see the town centre is spread out along Perlis River and its tributaries bubbling down from the mountains in the north. A couple of shophouse-lined crisscrossing streets and lanes compromise the town centre. The small town square together with Pasar Raya shopping complex is the most happening area, with banks, a post office, small roadside restaurants and a crowded KFC that's open 24/7.

Unlike Kedah state, where the working days are Sunday to Thursday, Perlis operates on a regular Monday to Friday system like Kuala Lumpur. Around lunch time, workers, shoppers and commuters often retreat from the midday sun to roadside stalls for a quick bite to eat and a gossip.

Travellers arriving on the Langkawi ferry at night will find Kangar town centre pretty deserted unless it's festival season, due to the majority of people here being Muslim and alcohol practically nonexistent. The only really busy-by-night area is near the express bus station, where shops and a handful of food stalls stay open until late.

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Johor Bahru travel guide, Malaysia

The story of Malaysia's Johor state picks up when Melaka was lost to the Portuguese in the early 1500s. Fleeing from the conquistadors, the royal family of Melaka led by Sultan Mahmud Shah, embarked on a circuitous journey, including a stint on Bintan Island which, albeit briefly, became the first capital of the Johor Sultanate.

From Bintan, Sultan Mahmud led a number of forays against the Portuguese in an attempt to retake Melaka, but the Portuguese had none of it and destroyed the Bintan base in 1526. On the move again, Sultan Mahmud headed back to peninsular Malaysia and the Sultanate of Johor was established in 1528 by Sultan Mahmud's son Alauddin Riayat Shah II.

Despite the relocation, peace remained elusive over the following 300 years with the Portuguese, Bugis (from Southern Sulawesi), Acehnese and Minangkabau (both from Sumatra) all battling for control of the region. However, the Sultanate maintained control by forming alliances with neighbouring Malay states and even the Dutch settlers (who they helped to seize Melaka in 1641). At the peak of its power, the Sultanate of Johor also included part of Sumatra, the Riau Islands and Pahang State.

A visit by Sir Stamford Raffles to a Johor village in 1819 ushered in the age of British influence. Raffles was scouting locations for a new British East India Company trading post and struck a deal with the village Temenggung (Chief of Defence): In exchange for exclusive trading rights on a small island now known as Singapore, the British would offer Johor their protection and an annual payment.

With the security of Johor assured, the present-day state capital Johor Bahru was founded in 1855. At the time its name was "Tanjung Puteri", but this was changed in 1886 by Temenggung Abu Bakar who also appointed himself as Johor's Maharaja and Sultan. Some refer to Bakar as "The Father of Modern Johor" for modelling the state's infrastructure and administration after the British system and opening the economy to Chinese entrepreneurs.

During World War II, Japanese forces occupied Johor Bahru. After the war the British returned but were unable to regain control -- Johor joined the Malayan Union in 1946 and achieved full independence as a part of Malaysia in 1957.

Modern Johor Bahru,usually referred to by its initials JB, is now Malaysia's second largest city. Although JB only reached official city status in 1994, the urban population is now almost a million and growing. The economy is strong and JB is one of Malaysia's most important industrial centres with refineries, electronics factories and a major seaport.

Many Johorian businesses rely on economic spillover from Singapore, and every weekend thousands of Singaporeans cross the 1 km Causeway that links the two cities to shop and dine using their stronger currency. Similarly, thousands of Johorians cross the Causeway on their motorbikes each morning to earn Singapore dollars before returning home that night. Not surprisingly, traffic on the Causeway can be a nightmare during peak times, weekends and holidays.

As the nearest escape from squeaky clean Singapore, central JB has embraced its sleazy side. Its reputation as a hotbed of crime and prostitution is exaggerated by sheltered Singaporeans, but not entirely untrue: Visitors should be wary of bag-snatchers and sex workers, as well as cheap cigarettes, questionable herbal tonics, and liquor, which are all openly touted on the street.

For most travellers JB is little more than a transportation hub and they linger just long enough to catch the "Causeway Express" bus to Singapore. If it's late, consider spending the night -- you get more bang for your hotel buck here than in Singapore.

Central JB doesn't have much charm, but it's possible to visit intriguing Indian and Taoist temples or shop at one of the new mega-malls. About 1 km west of the Causeway is one of Malaysia's top museums, the Royal Abu Bakar Palace, where you can soak up some colonial extravagance in the Victorian-mansion-turned-museum and take a stroll through the former Royal Gardens.

Johor does have more to offer than Johor Bahru, particularly for nature lovers. You can dive off the coral-fringed islands of the Seribut Archipelago, conquer Gunung Ledang mountain, or go jungle trekking in Endau-Rompin National Park, home to elusive rhinos and tigers.

Orientation
Bisecting Johor Bahru is Jalan Tun Abdul Razak, a heavily trafficked road that cuts through the centre of the city and eventually leads up to the Causeway. One street west is Jalan Wong Ah Fook, the major commercial street, where you'll find large shopping malls like Johor Bahru City Square and Komtar. The majority of hotels, restaurants and banks can be found here or along the side streets.

Jalan Ibrahim runs along the waterfront west of the Causeway and will take you to the Royal Museum and Sultan Abu Mosque. Continuing west you'll find waterfront dining and shopping.

Larkin long-distance bus terminal is 5 km north of the city centre and the new Sentral train station is beside the Malaysian Customs Complex before the Causeway.

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Kuala Perlis travel guide, Malaysia

The port town of Kuala Perlis is wedged on a strip of Andaman coast backed by mangroves and sheltered at the foothills of the Nakawan limestone range, a one-hour journey by boat from Langkawi or a 15-minute ride from Kangar.

The small port in town is mainly used for fishing and loading or unloading small-scale cargo arriving from Thailand and Indonesia. There are also customs and immigration offices here, where those going further on into Thailand via Satun province can stamp out before embarking on the 45-minute boat journey to enter Thailand at Thammalang near Satun.

Although small, a lot of activity goes on in this slightly fish-smelly port. The ferry from Langkawi sees a lot of daily passengers pass through, together with ships and fishing boats constantly docking and embarking near customs, yet there's not much public transport other than taxis and a Cityliner bus to Kangar.

In general, Perlis is mostly crime free, but in border areas -- such as here -- it's worth reminding travellers to keep an eye on their belongings and only use licensed taxis or the bus.

Even though Padang Besar border crossing is the most used and usually the easiest way into Thailand, you can opt to take a boat from Kuala Perlis to Thammalang in Satun province. There is an immigration station on the fishing pier some 200m from the intersection.

Head through a small security gate and the immigration booth where you stamp out of Malaysia is to the right. They are open 07:00-19:00 daily, but before you stamp out make sure you settle a price with the Thai boatmen that wait for passengers to Thammalang. A starting share price is usually 15 ringgit. It is not a good idea to do this crossing in stormy weather.

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Kuala Kedah travel guide, Malaysia

If you thought Sungai Petani was small Kuala Kedah is practically non existent! Apart from the jetty terminal where boats for Langkawi depart, there are only fishing boats and warehouses in the immediate village centre. Its locals earn their main income from fishing, which is made apparent from the strong fishy smell along the riverside.

Historically though the town was once a major stronghold and defended the state from sea invasions. Today its main attraction is Kota Kuala Kedah, the old fortress dating back to the 18th century, standing over the other side of Sungai Kedah. It was badly damaged during the 1821 war against the Siamese when Kedah was lost and transferred to Thai suzerainty, where it remained until 1909. The partially restored fortress can be seen from the jetty but reach it by car or taxi as the walk is quite far.

Orientation
At the Langkawi ferry terminal is a row of shophouses standing parallel to the car park in front of the blue terminal building, There's an ATM, 7-eleven and two restaurants selling Chinese and Indian-Muslim food at either corner of the row. Following the main road down from the terminal will only take you to residential areas with little to see. The village is mainly used as a departure point to get to the islands, making the terminal the main commercial area.

Getting there
Take a taxi either from your hotel or a taxi stand in Alor Setar. It costs 18 ringgit to Kuala Kedah, or hop on one of the many local buses that leave opposite Pekan Rabu Market. The bus will have a sign in the front window announcing its destination. Buses run every 10-15 minutes from about 06:30 to 22:00 and the ride takes only 15 minutes, costing 1.50-2 ringgit. It's a great ride on a straight road passing through smaller villages and endless green paddy.

As you come in on the bus from Alor Setar there's a green mosque at the main intersection where the bus turns left. Just 50m ahead is the blue Langkawi ferry terminal. The bus will stop on the main road in front of the terminal car park. Follow the row of shophouses on your left as you walk towards the terminal or go straight through the car park.

Tickets to the ferry are sold inside at Ferry Line Ventures counter, the first in a row of five. The ticket to Langkawi is 23 ringgit for adults and 17 ringgit for children. A signboard will tell you when the next boats leave. Don't get confused by the different names of the boats: they are the same ferry service and will all go to Kuah Town in Langkawi.

The ferries leave daily on the following schedule:
07:15, 08:00, 9:30, 10:30, 11:30, 13:30, 15:00, 16:30, 17:30, 19:00

Getting away from Kuala Kedah is easy as taxi drivers wait like hawks outside the terminal arrival hall, and buses run every 10 to 15 minutes at the bus stop out on the main road, heading back to Alor Setar.

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Beaches and islands of Melaka travel guide, Malaysia

Even though Melaka is a coastal province, its beaches and islands are nothing to write home about. If you're after a Malaysian beach holiday, you're better off travelling to the east coast or Langkawi.

Tanjung Kling & Pantai Puteri
If you're looking for a beach, Tanjung Kling is the nearest at about 12 kilometres from downtown Melaka. Rather than for swimming, most people come here to feast at one of the open-air seafood restaurants. Try Bert's Garden or The Seafarer for a meal of grilled fish and crab while watching the sun set over the Straits of Melaka. The Seafarer also offers water sports and can arrange dinner cruises.

The cleanest stretch of sand is known as Pantai Puteri (Princess Beach) and is a popular place for locals to relax on weekends. Malaysians generally swim dressed in shorts and a T-shirt, and wearing a bikini here would not be appreciated.

There are a couple places to stay at Tanjung Kling, but we wouldn't recommend them. There's Shah's Beach Resort -- simple chalets and no beach -- or the overpriced Pantai Puteri Hotel.

More information
Shah's Beach Resort
9km Tanjung Kling
T: (06) 315 3121
http://melaka.shahsresorts.com
Double chalet with private b'room: 180-250 ringgit

Pantai Puteri Hotel
Lot 2166 & 2167 Pantai Puteri, Tanjung Kling
T: (06) 353 5555
http://www.pantaiputerihotel.com
Double room with private b'room: 200-350 ringgit

Bert's Garden
2078-C, Jalan Kampung Pinang, Tanjung Kling
T: (06) 315 2213
http://www.bertsgarden.com/

The Seafarer
1516 Batang Tiga, Tanjung Kling
T: (06) 315 2693
http://www.seafarer.com.my

Pulau Melaka
This human-made island just off the coast from Melaka city is home to some posh apartments and the majestic Malacca Straits Mosque. Visitors are welcome to go inside to appreciate the architecture (or the sea view) -- robes and headscarves are available for female visitors.

Pulau Besar
Meaning "The Great Island", Pulau Besar is both beautiful and mysterious. The island is the subject of legends involving dead Indian princesses and Muslim holy men and, depending on their religion, locals consider the island to be either sacred or haunted. Perhaps that's why the recreational facilities built on the island -- a resort, golf course, swimming pools -- have been strangely abandoned.

The effect is eerie and kind of surreal, but means you'll definitely have the white-sand beach all to yourself. You're more likely to see a giant monitor lizard than another tourist. While many guesthouses advertise Pulau Besar to tourists as a place for sunbathing and swimming, most of the people on the ferry to the island are on a pilgrimage to its tombs and shrines. That said, visitors are asked to dress modestly (even when swimming) and not bring alcohol to the island.

To offer some insight into the island's history, the Pulau Besar Museum has opened near the jetty (admission five ringgit adults / three ringgit children). The posted opening hours are 09:00-17:00 daily, but this is rarely the case.

It is possible to spend the night on Pulau Besar either in a tent or in a wooden chalet at the D'Puteri Kurnia Resort (formerly the Chandek Kura Resort).

Most long-staying visitors bring their own supplies, but there are wells for drinking water (you're advised to boil it first) and Halal foodstalls to keep you fuelled.

D'Puteri Kurnia Resort
T: (06) 295 5899 / (06) 293 8753
nora_dputeriresort@yahoo.com
Now under new management (formerly the Chandek Kura Resort), the only place to stay on Pulau Besar looks decent from the outside with a renovated swimming pool and 66 wooden chalets spread across a hill. They do have air-con and attached bathrooms, but considering most guests are religious pilgrims don't expect a whole lot of luxury. The staff are young and friendly with lots of suggestions where to explore -- they'll even rent you a motorbike. The on-site restaurant only opens if there's a demand, otherwise you can eat at the nearby foodstalls. Vans waiting at the jetty will drive you directly here for two ringgit.

Double air-con chalet with private b'room: 140-200 ringgit (higher on weekends)

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Melaka travel guide, Malaysia

Midway between the capital cities of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur and at the mouth of the Strait of Melaka, a crucial shipping route connecting the Indian and Pacific oceans, Melaka has been a centre of trade and cultural exchange for more than 600 years.

Established at the beginning of the 14th century, Melaka (also spelt Malacca) was set up by a renagade Hindu Prince by the name of Parameswara (also known as Iskandar Shah). He originally hailed from Palembang on Sumatra, which, at the time was a part of the waning Srivijayan empire. The Srivijayans were slowly being conquered by the growing Majapahit Empire and when they took Palembang, Parameswara packed his bags and headed to Temasek (modern day Singapore).

Parameswara spent the next five years in Temasek, before fleeing (this time at the hand of the Siamese) and setting up shop in Melaka. While legend has it Melaka takes its name from a Melaka tree that Parameswara saw a mouse deer under, more sensible people believe its name comes from the Arabic word mulaqa which means 'meeting place'.

Ever since Parameswara arrived, Melaka has been a meeting place. Merchants from the Middle East, China, India, Southeast Asia, and even Europe have been drawn here, and everyone at some stage has wanted to control this important port city.

Control has changed hands many times since Parameswara's time. Portuguese sailors conquered it in 1511 and turned the city into a walled fortress, hoping to take control of the spice and silk trade. From that point, and for the next 400 years Melaka remained under European influence -- the Dutch rose to power in 1641, followed by the British in 1824. With the exception of four years of Japanese occupation during WWII, Melaka remained a British colony until Malaysia gained independence in 1957.

It was also an important hub of immigration and Chinese, Indian, and Portuguese settlements can be visited, each with their own traditional culture and cuisine. Melaka is the centre of Peranakan or Baba-Nyonya culture -- a group created when Chinese immigrants married Malay women and adopted local traditions.

Today, Melaka is a modern city, but one swathed in old-world charm. Its rich heritage has left behind a bounty of relics including Portuguese fortresses, Dutch town halls, Chinese temples and Catholic churches. Dotted around the city's historic quarter, many have been painstakingly preserved as museums of history or culture.

This wealth of attractions makes it one of Malaysia's top tourist draws attracting both package tourists on daytrips from Singapore along with a steady flow of backpackers and independent travellers making their way through Malaysia. Along with Georgetown in Penang, the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

A popular weekend escape for city-dwellers from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, much of the tourism here is of the pre-packaged variety -- tourists come to shop for antiques and stay in resorts in the suburbs. Melaka is largely tout-free and backpackers and independent travellers taking advantage of Melaka's many good guesthouses are unlikely to get hassled – you're not the target market here. Enjoy the break!

Orientation
Melaka is a reasonably-sized city of half a million people, but the area of interest to tourists is quite compact. The main sights and attractions can be easily explored on foot -- or a trishaw ride if you're feeling lazy.

The Sungai Melaka (Melaka River) runs through the middle of the city, bisecting the tourist area. Development has exploded along the riverbank, and this murky canal has become quite charming, with brick footpaths, public art and an abundance of riverside cafes and guesthouses.

Just south of the river is the colonial quarter, where you'll find the major historic sites including Dutch Square, Christ Church, The Stadthuys and the remains of the Portuguese fort A Famosa.

On the north side of the river is the Chinatown area bisected by busy Jalan Hang Jebat (better known as Jonker Walk). The surrounding streets are loaded with Perenakan shophouses, mini-museums, temples, restaurants, art galleries and souvenir shops selling antiques of questionable authenticity. Scattered through this area you'll also find the bulk of Melaka's guesthouses and hotels.

Melaka's status as a UNESCO World Heritage City has created a distinct "old town" and "new town". The giant shopping malls, five-star business hotels and anything else that looks modern can be found along Jalan Merdeka.

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Kuala Lumpur travel guide, Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur is the modern, bustling and lush-green capital of Malaysia, a testament to the Southeast Asian nation clawing its way in recent decades out of the developing world and into the WiFi-enabled modern one.

At the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers, and lying just over 30 kilometres from the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, KL, as it is commonly known, is not as old as some other Southeast Asian capitals. But it still lays claim to some historical sites of interest, such as mosques, temples, and British colonial-era architecture.

The past and present collide here, with the city's modern architecture also a real pull. The city boasts some amazing cutting-edge buildings, such as the the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, the tallest twin towers in the world, and Menara KL, the world's fourth tallest communications tower, for starters. The city, together with the surrounding Klang valley, is the fastest growing area in Malaysia, and you'll feel the buzz — as well as the growing volume of traffic and a groaning public transport system.

As will be immediately noticeable to travellers, the city of around 1.7 million people is a fascinating and cosmopolitan mix of ethnicities, including Malay, Indian, Chinese, indigenous groups from around the country, and Westerners. As nearby Melaka many centuries ago was a major entrepot for world trade, these days it's Kuala Lumpur drawing people from around the globe.

Unsurprisingly, given the city is so multicultural, a key KL attraction is simply food. KLites love to eat, and eat constantly, meaning there's a great restaurant scene, from the cheapest street food joints and hawker stalls plating roti canai and curry sauce, through to pricier international gourmet fare.

Jalan Alor, KL's most characterful eating street, brims with dozens of Chinese restaurants and food stalls. Ever fancied frog porridge or chicken feet?

Despite being a Muslim-majority country, alcohol is widely available in KL, which has a surprisingly vibrant nightlife. The flourishing Changkat Bukit Bintang area sees stylish bars rub shoulders with pretty restaurants. Enjoy the dining and drinking scene here, or go further upmarket still and head somewhere like the Sky Bar in Traders Hotel for a pricey drink but stunning city views.

The tropical city harbours some natural attractions too, including leafy expanses such as the 90-plus-hectare Lake Gardens with its bird and botanical parks, and Bukit Nanas, one of the oldest virgin forests in the world within a city.

Dip into Malaysian culture by visiting the national museum, where history is on display, and the Islamic Arts Museum, which has more than 7,000 artefacts in its permanent collection. Or take a different slant of attack and sample the varied cultures from around the nation via shopping at Central Market.

Shopping in fact is another key drawcard for many to KL — which perhaps unexpectedly is the fifth most visited in the world — with retail therapy options ranging from colourful local markets through to glittering megamalls. Many tourists do get dismayed by the hassle of the popular Petaling Street Market; a better option is wandering round Chinatown, which retains a real sense of the city's past.

The main areas of interest to travellers are Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), where most of the malls are, through to Chinatown, or Petaling Street, where the shopping is more open-air style and colonial-influenced architecture remains. Nearby Bukit Bintang has emerged as a great budget area to stay, as well as to eat, drink and shop in style.

Kuala Lumpur began life as a tin-mining operation. But warring rival gangs of Chinese immigrants, mostly from Fujian and Guangdong who originally settled in the area to labour in the booming mines, led to a production halt. This triggered the intervention of the Brits, who were then ruling the Federation of Malaya. They appointed a Chinese kapitan or headman to administer the settlement and by the late 19th century KL was thriving and named the state capital of Selangor.

In 1896, KL was chosen as the capital of the new Federated Malay States. During World War II, KL was captured by the Japanese in early 1942 and occupied until 1945. The Federation of Malaya gained independence from the British in 1957, and KL continued to be the capital when Malaysia was formed six years later.

KL's darkest time was the communal violence in May 1969, when hundreds of lives were claimed, most of them Chinese. Four decades on, the riots remain a scar on the city's psyche. Measures to placate Malays with positive discrimination remain in place and continue to fuel resentment among Chinese and Indians.

KL achieved city status in 1972 and was then named the first federal territory in 1974. In 2001, the administrative and judicial functions of the government were shifted to another federal territory, Putrajaya, but KL retains its legislative function. Most embassies have stayed and the city continues to be the economic centre of the country.

KL certainly has its critics and is skipped through quickly — or altogether — by many independent travellers to the region. But we suggest lingering a little, getting a feel for the food and the culture, and perhaps then you'll find the city as beguiling as its fans do.

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Penang travel guide, Malaysia

Malaysia's second largest island, Penang is also its most developed, with the eastern coast dotted with high-rises and crammed with holiday resorts. Travellers who have experienced beaches elsewhere in Asia will probably be unimpressed with the most popular beach spots, but the island's real attraction lies in its culture, history and cuisine.

The main city of Georgetown boasts a meld of interesting architecture stretching from the British colonial era to the colourful multicultural present, as well as fascinating museums and places of worship. And the food is a fabulous blend of cuisines from around the world, spiced with plenty of local specialities.

The bustling Penang of today is a far cry from that of yesteryear. Ruled by the fractious Sultans of Kedah until the late 18th century, Penang's strategic location by the northern entrance of the Straits of Melaka made it a beacon for seafarers crossing the Bay of Bengal -- and for the pirates that sought their wares.

Dutch, Portuguese, French and British traders vied for influence in the region, and the 17th and 18th centuries were periods of wheeling and dealing as the colonialists -- often trading opium and Indian textiles in return for minerals and spice -- sought to gain as much influence as possible, often at the end of a cannon.

While the Dutch held sway in Melaka at the southern end of the Straits, it was the British, or more particularly the British East India Company (EIC), that garnered control over Penang. Following the colonial practices typical of the time, the British merchant Francis Light (later Sir) used cunning, deception and outright lies to take advantage of a fragile political situation in Kedah and on 11 August 1786 he took formal possession of Penang, naming it Prince Wales Island.

In return the Sultan of Kedah was to be paid 30,000 ringgit per annum along with the promise of protection from marauding Siamese -- neither eventuated. Five years into the deal, the Sultan suffered a severe case of seller's remorse and tried to force the British from the island. He was rebuffed, with the end result being a lease payment reduced by 80% and still no protection from those tricky Siamese north of the border.

During those first five years, Light established a settlement on the island's easternmost point at Fort Cornwallis and the settlement grew quickly with the main area being named Georgetown, after the then-ruling King of England, George III. The original four streets of Georgetown were Beach, Chulia, Light and Pitt (now Masjid Kapitan Keling).

In the early days, Light is said to have filled his cannons with silver coins and fired them into Penang's dense forests. He armed his crew and native islanders with axes and had them clear the land -- any coins they found, they kept. This freewheeling style came to characterise Penang. In order to attract business away from his colonial rivals (primarily the Dutch), Light declared the island a Free Port, sparking a rapid influx of immigrants, especially Chinese, who were attracted by both the promise of new opportunities and Light's policy of allowing new arrivals to claim as much land as they were able to clear.

Light died of malaria in 1794 and the population of Penang continued to grow, reaching more than 10,000 people by the turn of the century. Old customs records show that together with the colonials, Indians, Chinese, Burmese, Thais, Sumatrans, Arabs, Armenians, Persians and dozens of other nationalities passed through Penang's port. Walking around Georgetown today you'll notice that many street names are named after the peoples that once lived there. Lebuh Acheh, Lebuh China and Lebuh Armenian to name just three.

Simultaneously the island had developed into a substantial hub within the opium trade between China and India -- with the EIC being the main facilitator. Licences for gambling dens and the brothels and opium traders that came with them eventually grew to account for almost 60% of Penang's revenue. While this trade was ostensibly administered by the EIC, behind the scenes it was really run by Chinese secret societies -- a state of affairs that eventually descended into violence.

Penang's star rose through the 19th century, with its apex arguably in 1826, when it was made capital of the Straits Settlements, which at the time also included Melaka and Singapore. It was the latter though that outpaced Penang in the longer term, with Singapore becoming the capital just six years later.

Penang's star soon lost its lustre when in 1867 the Penang Riots occurred, nine days of violence between two Chinese secret societies that had to be quelled by reinforcements sent from Singapore. Modern-day Lebuh Cannon is named after either cannon placements or cannon damage (depending on the story you prefer) related to the riots.

Through the remainder of the 19th and into the 20th century, Penang thrived on the back of its tin and rubber industries and also attracted some famous visitors, including Joseph Conrad, Rudyard Kipling and Somerset Maugham.

Penang fell to the Japanese on 19 December 1941, and they remained in charge till they surrendered to the British on 6 September, 1945. While the Japanese occupation resulted in the local population enduring brutal conditions, one bright mark was that the island suffered almost no damage from aerial bombing -- something that greatly worked in the favour of protecting the historic character of Georgetown.

Penang's lost its Free Port status to Langkawi in 1969 and after a period of stagnating development and high unemployment, the island re-invented itself as a centre for electronics manufacturing -- eventually developing into one of the larger hi-tech hubs in Southeast Asia. This industry -- and tourism -- are the mainstays of the Penang economy today.

From a tourist's perspective, the pirates and many of the trees have gone, but there's still no shortage of shiny coins worth digging up during a stay. Penang is wrapped in a rich tapestry of history and culture with a wealth of scenery along its beaches and capes. It's famous for its cuisine, which is as diverse as its populace, and while the beaches are not world class, they're not half bad either. And then there is the interior, boasting nature trails, waterfalls and viewpoints to boot.

The capital, World Heritage-listed Georgetown, is Penang's main attraction -- a bountiful blend of interesting architecture, intriguing people, eclectic shopping and cuisines. If you could imagine Laos' Luang Prabang, but three times the size, with traffic lights, busy morning commuters and car ferries crossing the Mekong between oil tankers and fishing boats, then you're heading in the right direction.

The inner city is a fascinating place to wander about, with plenty of tree-lined streets and tiny little crisscrossing lanes. Historical buildings, art galleries and a myriad of temples are among countless other attractions that share the space with good shopping, restaurants and people hanging up their laundry in front of their houses. Religious diversity has played an important role in the development of Georgetown -- around Lebuh Aceh and Lebuh Armenian for example is an old Indonesian mosque, yet in the same street a couple of houses down you can find old Chinese clan houses like Choo Kongsii and other temples. Every area has its own mood yet everything is neatly linked together.

When it comes to history, some of the must-see sights include Fort Cornwallis, Town Hall with its accompanying cricket field and the very informative Penang State Museum. On Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling -- 'The road of four religions' -- are St Georges Church, Maha Mariamman Hindu Temple, Kapitan Keling Mosque and the fascinating Goddess of Mercy Temple, one of the island's oldest shrines. Whole villages built on stilts called Clan Jetties jut out into the sea -- each jetty belongs to a different clan. On the outer edges of town are some larger temples and sights like Penang Hill Funicular Railway, the Botanical Gardens and the impressive Wat Chaiya Mangalaram, a Thai Buddhist temple.

Penang's main beach strip -- Batu Feringghi, or Foreigners Rock, is arguably the island's most swim-friendly beach and one of Malaysia's bigger holiday resorts, located about 15 km west of Georgetown along a winding coastal road. This once-sleepy beach village didn't see much change until the 1970s, when locals started to rent out their bungalow homes to a few wandering hippies for next to nothing. During the economic boom of the 1980s, hotels and resorts started to appear and it's been more or less downhill from there.

Today, especially during high season from December to September, hordes of tourists converge here, filling the high-rise hotel chains and resorts that jostle for space among the too-many seafood restaurants and trinket shops. Take a ride on a jet ski, go banana boat riding, try paragliding -- this is not the spot for a quiet beach holiday, though the long yellow sand beach stretching along the bay affords an impressive view over the mainland coastline and you could choose to just absorb yourself in a few good books in a deckchair.

You can rent a motorbike or hop on one of the frequently running buses to one of the more peaceful spots, such as Shamrock, Moonlight or Miami beaches, some of Penang's better coastal spots. Moonlight for instance stretches some 10m below road level, and boulders litter the fine-grained sand. The beach takes its name from the lovers who have long taken night walks here. These quieter beaches typically have a few cafes or Malay restaurants set up and are a pleasant retreat from Batu Feringghi's madness.

Just 5 km west of crowded Batu Feringghi, Teluk Bahang is a quaint little village populated mostly by Muslim fishing families, wedged between a small strip of beach and pristine jungle. A stop here is an easy way to escape the bustle of Georgetown and the usual Penang beaches and lets travellers enjoy a glimpse of old-style Malay living.

Life here seems to pretty much go on in the same way it always has. The old cafe and bungalows from the hippy years have disappeared, with only a trickle of backpackers generally making it here these days, staying in one of just a few places left. The best of an average bunch is the Hotbay Motel (Lot 358 Jalan Teluk Bahang, T: (04) 881 9555 F: (04) 881 9559) -- while the staff might prefer to have a snooze than check you in, Hotbay is a good hideaway spot for those looking for some down time. Rooms are reasonably priced, but small. They are equipped with big sturdy beds, a micro TV that shows Malay channels only, together with attached, slightly damp, Asian-style bathrooms, where the sink, toilet and hot shower combination couldn't have been put together in a worse way. Staff are friendly. Standard rooms go for 90 ringgit, family ones for 120 ringgit. The big, ghostly Mutiara Hotel up the road heading back towards Batu Feringghi is another option, but much pricier.

If you happen to find yourself here on a Monday night, don't miss the night market which is packed with locals and will tickle your taste buds. Try the fried crab Thai curry or the seafood steamboat at Tai Thong Seafood, some 100m up the main road from the pier. The Chinese couple that owns it may appear pushy but prices are reasonable. If you'd rather try some local Malay dishes, Kedai Melati is a good choice, located just past the seafood place around the bend. They serve mainly pre-cooked, help-yourself dishes for lunch on plastic chairs and simple tables painted with fruits and vegetables.

On the right side of the roundabout you'll find a small road next to a newish restaurant called End Of the World -- this is not the much-romanticised original of the same name. Follow that road and it will lead you towards the beach, passing by the police station. Once there you can easily cross somebody's backyard to get right to the beach.

Continuing up the road you'll see a row of Chinese and Malay coffee shops, then you'll hit a bridge over an inlet where fishing boats take shelter. Passing the bridge north follow the road until the end -- this is the end of the world for most people around here and where the old restaurant stood until it was demolished a few years ago to give way to the Penang State Park Headquarters.

At the end of the car park by the park headquarters a fishing pier juts out on wooden stilts for nearly 100m over the water. On a good day you can enjoy a rather beautiful view out to sea. Apart from taking a trek through the park there's really not much to do in the village centre other than bumming around the beach or having a chat with the fishermen as they come in with their catch.

Aside from just hanging out, a few minor points of interest are worth checking out. About 300m up the road from the roundabout is the well-signposted Penang Butterfly Farm. Another popular spot for tour groups are the two batik factories, open 09:00-17:30. Admission is free.

Orientation
Most development has occurred along Penang's east, stretching along the channel dividing the island from the mainland. Georgetown sits at Penang's northeast shoulder, with Bayan Lepas International Airport and Free-Trade Zone some 30km to the south.

The central area of the island, referred to as Penang Hill, remains reasonably well forested (perhaps Light's cannons couldn't reach that far), but developers are staking their territory here, with apartments growing like mushrooms in the wet season.

Georgetown is where it's at facilities-wise. Banks and ATMs are dotted around the island but are most concentrated here. Bigger banks like Maybank, Hong Leong and CIMB Bank accept foreign currency as well as travellers cheques and banking hours are usually Mon-Fri, 09:15-16:30 and Sat 09:15-12:15. Outside these times you will find many licensed money changers, dealing in cash, along Lebuh Chulia.

Internet cafes are both affordable and all over the shop. Rates start at 1-2 ringgit per half hour and many places offer free WiFi.

Penang has quite reasonable medical care, with Gleaneagles Medical Centre (1 Jalan Pankor, Penang. T: (04) 227 6111) being the first recommended choice, and Island Hospital (308 Jalan Macalister, Penang. T: (04) 226 8527) being a good second option. Numerous clinics around town are fine for minor medical issues.

Penang is well known for its shopping, both at smaller markets and handicraft shops as well as in large malls. Prangin Mall is packed with clothes stores, electronic shops and fast food restaurants, while Gurney Plaza is slightly more upmarket. Both have cinemas showing the latest releases in English. Malls are open daily 10:00-22:00.

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