Sidemen travel guide, Indonesia

Sideman (pronounced si de man — not side man) is one of those hidden-away Bali retreats that really is, well, just enchanting. Set a 45-minute drive inland from Padang Bai and an hour from Candi Dasa, Sideman straddles one of the many agricultural valleys that form the ramp up to the imposing peak of volcanic Gunung Agung.

While it is primarily a rice growing area, there's all manner of other crops and nurseries in the area — including chillies (which we don't recommend eating whole). There's also a temple at the summit of a very steep set of stairs that offers tremendous views, a scenic river flowing through the valley floor and ample opportunity for both trekking (while other spots are more convenient, you can organise an ascent of Gunung Agung from Sideman) and just more easy-going wanders through the ricefields.

Most hotels in Sideman will be able to supply you with a basic map of the area and this forms a good starting point. A sealed road loops around much of the valley, passing by the stairs to the temple and some excellent viewpoints, but a good idea is to take the road for a bit, then veer off into the paddies via one of the myriad dirt trails you'll see.

You will get lost, but that is half the fun. We followed a coursing irrigation canal that ended up delivering us to a tree-shaded temple we could probably never find again. On the way we found more chilli crops and roughly half the duck population of Bali. We also stumbled upon another village, even more views — very briefly catching Gunung Agung through the clouds — before suddenly realising we were at the opposite end of the map to where we thought we were.

Sideman is worth at least an overnight stay, but if you've got the time and enjoy walking in the fields, you could easily spend two or three relaxing nights here. There's also a small but growing selection of restaurants to choose from.

Orientation
Note there are no banking facilities in Sideman and we found the internet to still be a bit patchy, but the 3G coverage is definitely better than it was in late 2010!

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Sanur travel guide, Indonesia

A popular escape from the hectic west coast beaches, Sanur provides a far more relaxed beach atmosphere, with an offshore reef providing calm waters that are ideal for children. Accompanying the pleasant seaside atmosphere are a wide range of good quality, well shaded restaurants and cafes and only a fraction of the hassles that one encounters from the pushier business owners in Kuta.

The beach in Sanur stretches some 5km from the Nusa Lembongan departure point in the north to the beach to Mertasari in the south. Along this entire stretch is a paved walkway that is sandwiched between the sand and an endless string of hotels, restaurants and massage ladies. It's a pleasant place to wander along to take in the sights, sun and sea breeze — it's even possible with a pram or bicycle.

As with many of Bali's beaches, Sanur has lost a significant amount of its sand and groins have been built to try to retain what remains. Comfortable salas sit on many of these making for a comfortable spot to while away a hot afternoon. Midway along the beach there is even one that can only be swum to (or waded to at low ride). We've been told on numerous occasions (admitedly only by beach masseuses) that Sanur lost almost all of its sand and what is there today was shipped in from West Timor — do let us know if you find a concrete answer to this!

Sunday is a day off for most of Bali, and some Sundays it seems most of the resident population of Bali head to the northern stretch of the beach. It makes for a festive atmosphere with roving food vendors, drink stalls, lots of BBQ corn and about six gazillion motorbikes parked on the roads leading to the beach. It's a world away from the south coast beaches.

While the beach is protected by an offshore reef, when the tide is high, the reef works to form a bit of a lagoon and you can hire jukungs to sail the length of the beach for an hour or two. You'll comfortably fit two passengers in (three is a crowd) and it makes for a relaxing time. Even if this isn't your thing, the multicoloured sails make for a very scenic backdrop on a sunny afternoon.

Even though Sanur is not as hectic as trendy Seminyak, it is still heavily touristed and those seeking an untouristed Bali beach experience won't find it here. This is one of the island's original "tourist areas" and today is especially popular with families with kids. Occasionally referred to as "Snore" the pace here is far slower and sedentary than Kuta/Seminyak and by midnight just about everywhere is shutting up shop.

Orientation
Sanur is basically formed by a loop road that loops to the east of the Ngurah Rai Bypass. In the south it begins with Danau Poso which intersects with Danau Tamblingan and runs north, parallel to the beach, till transforming into Danau Toba and rejoining the bypass.

Further north still, on the northern side of the Inna Grand Hotel and Sanur Paradise Plaza, the main throughfare to Denpasar, Jalan Hang Tuah bisects the Bypass and runs down to the beach, forming a second, smaller, enclave of hotels, bars and restaurants. It is from this northern point that the boats to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida run from.

Most of the activity as far as shops, cafes and bars go in Sanur is located on Jalan Danau Tamblingan, and, to a lesser extent, Danau Poso.

On Danau Tamblingan you'll find ATMs every few hundred metres, internet cafes and many cafes offering free WiFi.

For those interested in saving money and not eating out, Hardy's supermarket is also located here and provides a full range of groceries and department store items at good prices.

The post office is located on Jalan Danau Buyan and opens at 8am daily and the police station is located on Jalan Ngurah Rai Bypass between Danau Poso and Jalan Hang Tuah. There's also a police kiosk at the intersection of the Bypass and Danau Poso, and while these guys keep themselves very busy booking tourists riding motorbikes without helmets and/or licenses, they could probably help you out if you're in a bind.

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Gili Trawangan travel guide, Indonesia

Gili Trawangan, or Gili T to its friends, is the largest of three islands scattered off Lombok's northwest coast. While all three of these Gilis (Gili means island in the Sasak language of Lombok) are especially photogenic,
each has a character of its own and attracts a certain crowd -- in the case of Gili T, it's the party set.

It is a very pretty island. You'll have near endless opportunity to take photos to make the office back home suitably jealous. The beaches here really are white sand and the water really is turquoise.

The island, which has no natural water supply, has more than 100 places to stay -- and probably another 100 places to eat -- plus travel agents, internet cafes, dive shops, warungs, and even, in the back blocks of the village, some houses that people just... live in.

There's snorkelling offshore, and while the coral is in a very sorry state, you'll probably see a turtle or two and there are still plenty of fish. You can surf, cycle around the island, do snorkelling and fishing trips or you can just lay on the beach and take it easy.

Or you can party. A very lively party scene here sees both booze and a variety of drugs freely on offer imbibed. It's got that manic tilt to it that sees the all-night crowd mixing with the morning crowd all too often.

A word on the drugs: we were repeatedly, multiple times a day, offered drugs -- mostly mushrooms, but cocaine was also commonly suggested. Regardless of whatever the somewhat unique policing situation on Gili Trawangan may be, marijuana and cocaine most definitely remain absolutely illegal in Indonesia. Occasional arrests when undercover police are sent to the island occur, and you'd need to be an absolute twit to consider any goods purchased on Trawangan to be easily or safely transported elsewhere in the archipelago.

Prices are high -- accommodation, food and drink are all more expensive than what you might expect to pay elsewhere on Lombok -- and in high season (mid-June through to end of August), the prices are, quite honestly, ridiculous.

So who is Trawangan for? If you're travelling solo, you'll meet people here. If you want to party, don't mind paying a premium for it, and want to sleep off big nights on undeniably white sand beaches, then the island should have significant appeal.

So who isn't is for? Families with kids who value sleeping time and uncrowded beaches -- they should head to Gili Meno (though there are a few expensive spots on the island's north that may still suit). More affluent travellers looking for a high standard of accommodation without needing earplugs should head to Gili Air.

There are no cars or motorbikes on Gili Trawangan (or Meno and Air), which contributes to the generally peaceful, getaway vibe in the air. Instead, you can hire a cidomo, or horse and cart, to move you and any heavy baggage around.

Orientation
Gili Trawangan is an almost mango-shaped island with the vast majority of development based on the "inside" side of the mango. Everything is centred around the pier and boat landing office (not all boats use the pier) and within a short walk of here you'll find the night market, at least three ATMs, a small medical clinic, a bunch of travel agents and dive shops, internet cafes and a massive selection of places to eat, sleep and play at.

Basically it is all within spitting distance.

When choosing where to stay there are three main noise considerations to keep in mind. The area south of the pier gets the brunt of the racket from the bars at night. The area about 100 metres north of the pier gets to hear the call to prayer very, very clearly. The northern tip of the island gets the neverending whir of the PLN electricity generator. We tried all three. One of us though the generator the least obtrusive -- but you are a long way from the party! -- while the other enjoyed the call to prayer and was able to sleep through the pre-dawn one.

As Gili Trawangan has no spring water all water is either shipped in (literally) or bored, but the bore water is really just slightly less salty sea water. Because of this, the cheaper places do not have fresh water showers and the reason restaurants don't give you a glass with your soda or beer (instead supplying you with a straw -- itself something preferably avoided due to rubbish issues) isn't because they forgot, but rather because they're trying to keep washing up to a minimum.

Nearly all the accommodation and restaurants are along the east coast of the island. The west coast is mostly deserted, save a smattering of high-end resorts, villas and private accommodation.

There is a trail, sometimes paved but mostly sandy, that runs all the way around Gili Trawangan. You can walk it at a relaxed pace in two to three hours, not counting time for meal breaks and so on -- be sure to take water with you as there are long stretches with no places to refuel. It's popular to rent a bicycle and ride it, but the trail is thick sand for long stretches on the west coast and you will end up pushing the bike a good distance.

There are at least three ATMs on the island, two of which (Commonwealth Bank and Mandiri) will be of use to foreign travellers. There are also a couple of money changers and, according to signage, cash advances can be arranged through some travel agents.

Phones will work across the island and a 3G signal can be gained generally when you can see Lombok, or when you're up on the hill -- it is very variable though. A few places offer WiFi but it isn't ubiquitous, and restaurants that do offer it often require a minimum charge. There are plenty of internet cafes around the port and village.

Very basic medical care is available on Gili Trawangan. For anything serious, straight to Mataram on Lombok, or Bali.

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Gili Air travel guide, Indonesia

Gili Air is the closest to Lombok of the three Gili islands. In size, it lies between Meno and Trawangan, and has the largest "normal" community.

Unlike Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan, Gili Air actually does have its own water source and you'll notice immediately how much greener and overgrown it is compared to the other two far more arid islands. Much of the interior is given over to coconut cultivation, though tourists are proving themselves a more lucrative crop and slowly the palm plantations are either making way for places to stay or at least shading bungalows beneath.

The island is ringed by a very pretty beach with some quite respectable snorkelling offshore. We didn't have time to snorkel the entire island, but off the southwest coast there are some good intricate banks of coral, while the west coast (high tide only) can be a good spot for spotting turtles. We didn't snorkel the east coast, but we saw lots of others who did, so there must be something out there! All around the island there is evidence of beach being swept away, and again the west coast tended to be the less affected.

Bicycles are easily hired and there is a quite good (albeit confusing) network of sealed paths around and throughout the island, making it far easier to explore than Gili Meno.

As with the other islands, the majority of the population here is Muslim and there is a large mosque towards the south-central part of the island. Unlike on Gili Trawangan, there are few guesthouses close by so you're unlikely to hear the call to prayer.

Most of the accommodation is clustered at the southwest and west coast of the island, though there is a smattering of places the entire way around it. The northeast (sunset) area is the most isolated -- and in our opinion -- the best.

Orientation
As of August 2011, Gili Air had no ATM but the papers, we were told, had been signed and one is coming soon. Outside of doing an ATM run to Gili Trawangan, there are agents that will do a cash advance for a commission.

The east coast has an internet cafe and 7 Seas Backpackers sells internet coupons that will give you WiFi access in the southern part of Gili Air. 3G coverage is patchy.

There is a very basic clinic on Gili Air, but for anything serious you'd be wanting to get to at least Mataram if not Bali.

Snorkelling gear is widely available for rent and you shouldn't need to bring your own unless you have specialised needs.

Crime on Gili Air is very rare, but in the evening exercise care along the north and northwest coast of the island where there are long stretches of deserted areas with no lighting. Attacks, while rare, have happened and drinking to excess or munching on mushrooms then walking home alone in a diminished state in this area is a bit silly.

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Yogyakarta travel guide, Indonesia

Yogyakarta is nestled right in the heart of Java and is steeped in the rich culture and tradition that has been sidelined by modernity in some of the island's larger metropolises. That doesn't mean traffic jams, shopping malls and internet obsessions have left Yogyakarta unscathed, however concerted efforts by the local government, educators and the residents themselves have so far managed to spare Javanese tradition from falling under the bullet-train of progress.

Before we dive into a history lesson, let's clear up one point of confusion — Yogyakarta (the official spelling), Jogjakarta, Yogya and Jogja are all the same place. There's two different variants on the spelling and the locals also like to shorten the name. We're going with Yogya.

Back before the word Yogyakarta was even spelled at all, the area was home to Hindu, Buddhist and Animist dynasties during the 8th to 10th centuries. Gradually, the religious makeup of the area changed with the expansion of Islam across the island. The Mataram Islam dynasty was the dominant force in the area from the late 16th century to early 18th century.

The Yogyakarta sultanate was established in 1755 by the forced split of the powerful dynasty by Dutch colonisers. The first sultan of Yogyakarta was Hamengkubuwono I, whose family built the city's palace, known at the Kraton. His legacy continues, with his descendant Hamengkubuwono X now acting as both the sultan and democratically elected governor of the city.

Dutch colonialists also left their mark architecturally on the city. The Bank Indonesia building at the end of Jalan Malioboro is one of the prime examples of the European influence on building styles and there are many public offices especially built in a Javanese-Dutch style. However, Yogya was also the site of legendary backlash against Dutch rule. Yogyakarta Prince Diponegoro waged a holy war against the colonialists from 1825-1830 and the city also acted as an administrative centre for the Indonesian independence battle after World War II when the Dutch had reoccupied Jakarta. The sultan locked himself in his palace during this time and allowed rebels to use it as a base. Yogya declared itself part of the Republic of Indonesia once independence was won and was given special region status.

Yogya's inter-religious and royal history still shapes the city and its surrounds to this very day. Javanese culture, manners and beliefs still prevail strongly, but among it all, a modern vibrant society has cropped up, especially in the city's north which is teeming with university students dressed in the most on-trend clothes imaginable. Home to some of Indonesia's largest university campuses, Yogya is renowned domestically as a student city and has a hip undercurrent that mingles with its characteristically Javanese temperament.

Overall, however, this region is far more conservative than Bali or the bright lights of Jakarta. Despite being home to some of Indonesia's greatest Hindu and Buddhist temples, the vast majority of Yogya residents nowadays are Muslim, so visitors should show respect for the local culture and make their own travels easier by dressing modestly.

For centuries, settlers have long praised the fertile volcanic soils around Yogyakarta, but these lush fields are the product of risk. Even today, an active volcano still looms on the horizon near the city. Mount Merapi has erupted regularly since 1548, and most recently threatened residents in April 2006. Shortly after, in an unrelated event, Yogyakarta was shaken by a devastating 6.3-magnitude earthquake on May 27. Nearly 6,000 people were killed with tens of thousands more injured and 135,000 buildings destroyed. The city centre was spared extensive damage, but in outlying areas evidence of the quake is visible even four years later and many individuals and small businesses are still trying to fully recover. The tourism industry bounced back strongly and has aided the city's economic recovery.

Yogyakarta has many rewards for the traveller, which is why it remains the most popular destination on Java island for international visitors. It's home to some of the friendliest people on the planet who are eager to share their culture with visitors — and there's a whole lot of culture to be had. This city is still at the centre of production of handicrafts and traditional textiles and has Javanese dance, theatre and shadow puppet (wayang kulit) performances on nearly every day and night of the week.

Yogya is also the perfect base to explore the absolutely stunning UNESCO-listed temples of Borobudur and Prambanan, which are not far from town. The vibrant countryside along the way, filled with rice paddies, sometimes almost looks too lush and green to be real.

The heart of the town is straightforward to navigate and many key destinations are within walking distance of one another. If the heat is too much, there is never a shortage of cheap transport options, including the becak (pedicabs) that are a distinctive part of the Yogya streetscape.

Yogyakarta has two well-serviced main accommodation strips. Sosrowijayan is located off the main street of Jalan Malioboro to the north, close the main Tugu train station. Jalan Malioboro runs from the station down to the Sultan's palace and is a good point of reference for orientating yourself in the city. South of the palace lies Jalan Prawirotaman, the second accommodation hub which is home to more midpriced beds. Both of these areas offer a great range of options for eating and drinking, as well as essential services such as internet and travel agents. Most of the main sights in the town centre lie in the area between these two hubs.

Besides checking out the temple complexes, which are a must-see, one of the best things to do in Yogyakarta is to simply soak up the atmosphere. The kampungs, or local neighbourhoods, are intriguing to wander around. Close to the Kraton, puppet workshops and batik galleries are tucked along narrow laneways, while further south in Kota Gede, silversmiths practice their craft by the street side or in workshops behind houses. Yogya also has a higher-than-average population of genuinely talented street musicians, so you never know when you might run into an impromptu concert. There's also plenty of good shopping options for those in the market for souvenirs.

Orientation
Government Tourist Information Office, Jl Malioboro No. 16, T: (0274) 566 000

The Central Post Office is located at the corner of Jl Senopati and Jl A Yani and is open during regular business hours.

ATM machines are available around the city. Be sure to cover the keypad when typing your pin and be on the lookout for machines that have been tampered with.

For English-speaking medical assistance, try Bethesda Private Hospital, Jl Jenderal Sudirman No. 70, T: (0274) 586 688.

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Amed travel guide, Indonesia

The place commonly referred to as Amed isn't a single town but a string of quaint beachside fishing villages stretching about 10km along the dry and rugged northeastern coast of Bali. It's a world away from the busy tourist centres in South Bali such as Kuta, Seminyak and Legian.

The common usage of Amed for the area started due to the same-named village being the first of the villages to be visited by tourism which subsequently spread east to the neighbouring villages further east. Although the layout is quite straightforward with villages following on from one another along the coast, getting your bearings can be difficult because of the seemingly endless number of similar looking small bays.

The village of Amed is the first village to cater for tourists when heading into the area from Culik and is followed by Jemeluk, Bunutan, Pupuan, Lipah, Lean, Selang, Banyuning and Aas. By the time you reach Aas, tourist facilities have all but faded away and all that remains are a couple of small guesthouses. The most popular locations are Jemeluk, Bunutan and Lipah.

Amed is set more or less due north of Candi Dasa and east of Tulamben and so makes a convenient stopping point for those travelling around the island. Most people visit Amed to relax by the beach, snorkel and dive and the area doesn't disappoint in this regard. The best snorkelling is to be had in Jemeluk, Selang and Banyuning while diving is more commonly conducted offshore and arranged through the many dive shops in town.

The climate in Amed is much hotter and drier than other parts of Bali, particularly compared to Ubud and other inland centres and you'll find that accommodation without air-con or the ability to catch the sea breeze to be stifling. As a result of this climatic difference, crops grown around the area are those that require much less water than rice: corn, peanuts and cassava (singkong).

If diving isn't your thing, Amed can also be used as a base to climb Gunung Agung. You tend to leave around 11pm and climb all night, arriving at the summit for dawn. Ask at your guesthouse or hotel to put you in contact with a guide. Rates start at around the 500,000 rupiah mark, but are variable depending on size of group and are, of course, negotiable. It is a hard climb!

The demographic of visitor here is very heavily dominated by European countries. This heavy reliance on European visitors distorts the local economy by bringing large amounts of money into the community in July and August and leaving many of the cafes and hotels completely empty for the rest of the year.

This also has the effect of increasing prices of everything from snorkelling gear to accommodation in these two months, when just about every room apart from the most expensive are booked out. The other side to this coin is that hoteliers are desperate at all other times and open to massive discounts on negotiation.

Orientation
As at late 2010 there was no ATM in Amed. You're closest bet for a cashpoint is Amlapura — so bring enough moolah with you.

Internet is available at a few cafes through the area and some guesthouses and cafes also offer it either on a free or paid-for basis.

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Seminyak travel guide, Indonesia

Seminyak is the village immediately to the north of Legian with a reputation for all the pleasures in abundance to its south, but with a distinctly upmarket vibe. Here the sunglasses are bigger, the dresses designer and the drink of choice champagne.

Seminyak stretches from Jalan Double Six in the south and morphs into the villages of Kerobokan and Umalas somewhere north of the Petitenget temple.

Fashion designers flock to Seminyak in their hundreds and use this area to showcase their wares with little boutiques lining Jalan Raya Seminyak and Jalan Kayu Aya/Laksmana and Oberoi. Consequently, this increases the level of fashion awareness among the crowds that call this place home and you'll notice plenty of people attempting to uphold their image while slamming back cocktails at one of the many chic bars in town.

The beach here is simply an extension of the one further south in Kuta and Legian, but there are fewer patrolled areas for swimming and there are constant rumours circulating of the latest tourist to have drowned due to the treacherous waters. It's best to heed the warnings of the many signs along the beach to swim only been the flagged areas and ensure that a life guard is on duty in case you get into trouble.

The hotels in Seminyak represent some of the best in Indonesia with the likes of the Legian and Samaya showcasing just how well luxury accommodation can be done. At these sorts of places you can easily fork out in excess of US$500 per night — but these prices are bargain when compared to similarly priced rooms in the West. Despite the abundance of top end accommodation, it is possible to find cheaper digs located away from the beach but they are generally more expensive than what can be found in Kuta and Legian.

A big feature of the Seminyak scene is eating. Some truly amazing restaurants call Seminyak and more increasingly Kerobokan home. Eateries such as La Lucciola and Sarong are top notch while cafes such as Café Bali and The Tuckshop do fantastic coffees, cakes and lunches. The inner foodie in many people will delight at the options available here.

Orientation
The main roads of Seminyak are Jalan Raya Seminyak, which is simply an extension of Jalan Legian further south and Jalan Kayu Aya, which houses a full range of boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Somewhat confusingly, Jalan Kayu Aya is also referred to as Jalan Laksmana and Jalan Oberoi. For the our purposes we use Jalan Laksmana from the junction with Jalan Raya Seminyak down to Seminyak Square, then Jalan Oberoi from there to Kudeta and the Oberoi Hotel and then Jalan Kayu Aya from there on to where it meets Jalan Pettitenget just after La Lucciola. It sounds confusing, but for all intents and purposes it is the one road and takes about 30 minutes to walk from end to end.

Outside of these roads, the area can feel like a bit of a rabbit warren as once tranquil ricefield laneways become sandwiched between the concrete walls of villas and upmarket hotels.

ATMs are available on Jalan Raya Seminyak and in some convenience stores located on Laksmana and Jalan Caplak Canduk. Internet cafes are predominantly located on Jalan Raya Seminyak, but free WiFi is widely available at the cafes on Jalan Laksmana. Medical emergencies are best treated at Sanglah hospital in Denpasar, though there is a small medical clinic on Jalan Laksmana.

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Ubud travel guide, Indonesia

Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, lures visitors from all around the world to its enchanting dances, art galleries, ceremonial procession, luxurious spas and divine restaurants. The pace of life in Ubud, set on the dramatic Ayung River, is a sharp contrast to the chaos in the south of the island. Many people spend their days here being pampered in spas, taking yoga classes, relaxing in the town's fantastic cafes and taking the occasional stroll through the surrounding ricefields.

Ubud is a destination where it is possible to chance upon local people participating in ceremonies right on the main road and more frequently in many of the back streets surrounding the town itself. These ceremonies are the real deal and not put on for tourists, although local people are usually comfortable for tourist to look on.

For those not lucky enough chance on an authentic ceremony, it is possible to attend one of the many dance performances that take place nightly in Ubud and the surrounding villages. While these performances are put on especially for tourists, the performers are first rate and it is a great insight into how these performances take place in villages around the island. Shadow puppet shows are also performed at Oka Kartini on Jalan Raya Ubud to small audiences three times per week at 20:00.

Ubud boasts a superb eating scene and many of the best restaurants in Bali are located here. Most are attached to luxury hotels, but others such as Mozaic strike out on their own with stunning success. Further down the ladder of culinary refinement are such popular establishments are Ibu Oka's and Naughty Nuri's where eating with your fingers in less posh surrounds is all part of the experience.

Accommodation in Ubud ranges from simple backpacker digs in family compounds to some of the best luxury hotels in Asia. The diversity of options can be overwhelming and it's often best to set a budget and then look for a hotel that meets it.

Depending on traffic, Ubud is roughly an hour by car from Sanur or Seminyak and a little longer from Kuta near the airport.

Orientation
Central Ubud is usually defined as the area around the market on Jalan Raya Ubud and the road running perpendicular to it called Money Forest Road. Monkey Forest Road of course runs all the way to the Monkey Forest in the south and then loops back around to merge into Jalan Hanoman, which then runs all the way back to Jalan Raya Ubud. Many people don't venture outside of this loop such is the density of activities to be found within it, but there are delights to be found a short walk away on some of the smaller streets and some of them even lead to seemingly endless ricefields that are the stuff of National Geographic photos.

Internet cafes are located throughout town and free WiFi is provided in many of the better cafes. Convenience stores and ATMs are dotted throughout town with a particular concentration on Jalan Raya Ubud near Starbucks. The Ubud Clinic located 1km west of the Ubud market on Jalan Raya Ubud is available to assist with minor medical complaints although serious issues will need to be referred to Sanglah Hospital in Denpasar.

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Ochheuteal Beach travel guide, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

It may be difficult to pronounce, but the name certainly hasn't put people off the longest and most popular beach in Sihanoukville. Many actually know Ochheuteal beach as Serendipity, which actually refers to the western patch of sand.

Much of Occheuteal is dedicated to food stalls and small bamboo bars, but the southern stretch is largely deserted, save for a development project, including a golf course, which has seemingly been under construction forever.

While Serendipity has the bulk of the beach hotels and guesthouses, the restaurants and bars stretch for much more of the full length of the beach, with the far end playing host to the on-again off-again joints that offer free accommodation in the low season (you're expected to either eat and drink at the place frequently or help them distribute flyers in return).

Popular with barang and Khmers alike, the weekends are particularly busy with snacking Phnom Penh escapees mingling with backpackers and daytrippers from other beaches.

The seas can get rough here and drownings are not uncommon, so exercise care when swimming — the waves may not look big, but the currents are deceptive. And, without wanting to sound too much like your mother, swimming when under the influence (of whatever) isn't a particularly intelligent thing to do.

Ochheuteal also has more than its fair share of con-men, dodgy moto drivers and other lowlife, so exercise care at night. Staggering down the beach in the early hours of the morning stoned or drunk is not recommended. Rapes, stabbings and muggings have all been reported here, both at the rocky end near Serendipity, but also along the other end of the beach.

Be careful, people! Remember, Cambodia is barely recovering from three decades of war, poverty is desperate and there's a pretty chronic drug scene among Sihanoukville local youth.

Further to the south, over the headland, you'll find the rather tempting Otres Beach.

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Kratie travel guide, Cambodia

Say Kratie to any Khmer and they'll think dolphins -- in particular Mekong Irrawaddy dolphins. Around 20 kilometres north of Kratie, at the village of Kampi, the swirling waters of the Mekong are considered one of the best places in the world to see the critically endangered Mekong Irrawaddy dolphin.

Dolphins aside, Kratie province is also known for its pleasing riverside scenery and pretty villages and paddy. Nearly all who choose to stay here do so in the same-named provincial capital of Kratie -- an almost charming town with enough colonial architecture and tree-lined streets to warrant getting the camera out, a bunch of welcoming guesthouses and hotels and even a bar -- quite a novelty in these parts. The surrounding villages will live up to fantasies of lush, riverside Cambodia, with green paddy and beautifully polished stilted wooden homes shaded by thick palms.

Moreso than Stung Treng to the north, if you're planning on blasting through from Phnom Penh to Don Dhet in 4,000 islands, if you've got the time, you'll be glad to have at least had an overnight stay here.

Fewer than 80 dolphins (a VOA report in June 2009 put the total at 76) remain in the river -- primarily along a near 200 kilometre stretch of the Mekong River in northern Cambodia heading towards the Lao frontier. About 25 of these dolphins reside primarily in the area near Kampi, and while there are ongoing and comprehensive conservation projects underway, dolphin mortality remains high. A report by the WWF said the lower part of the Mekong River has become so polluted and contaminated that as many as 88 dolphins have died since 2003. Toxic substances such as the DDT pesticide that is used in agriculture and PCB that WWF Cambodia believes is from mining in Laos (particularly copper and gold mining in Savannakhet province) do not help the situation.

A common misconception is that the dolphins can be seen from Kratie town; this is not the case. The dolphins hang out at Kampi, some 20 kilometres north along the river road. Any motodop will be more than happy to take you there. Other ways to get to Kampi include motorbike hire ($6 per day), bicycle hire ($2 per day) and car hire ($15 per day). Once you arrive at the dolphin pool, it costs $9 for one person to rent an entire boat or $7 per person with three or more people. The boat ride lasts for an hour or two and the driver should be flexible on bringing you back once you've had your fill. A number of dolphins are still in the area and on prior visits we saw about 10, several of which swam quite close to the boat. Note that the organisers will not let you watch from the mainland -- and have in fact built a wall to obscure the view. If you want to see the dolphins, even if you don't want to use the boat, you still have to pay for it. Yes, idiotic.

It takes about 30 minutes each way to Kampi, and we recommend going in the late afternoon when it's cooler and you can pair your trip with a stop at the nearby Sambok Mountain pagoda to watch the sunset. A giant (like those who mythically built Angkor Wat) guards the staircase to the temple. At the top, there's a small pagoda on Phnom Bro (Brother Mountain) and another, higher hill connected by staircase, called Phnom Srei (Sister Mountain). Oddly, the male monks live on the sister hill and the nun's pagoda is on brother hill. We found the nuns to be warm and chatty with female solo travellers who spoke only basic Khmer.

Koh Trong, located across the river from Kratie's town centre, is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. We learned the hard way that bicycles are available on the island and you do not need to rent one in town and haul it down to the river before boarding the ferry. The ferry costs 1,000 riel per person (bicycles are free). A nine-kilometre trail circles the entire island, and while it's a bumpy ride, it's beautiful, lush and unspoilt, with a few villages, grazing cows and smiling kids around the perimeter and fluorescent paddy in the centre. We've never had more fun trying to get lost and never felt like we'd accessed authentic Cambodia quite so easily. You can watch the sunset from the island's western banks, but be sure to arrange transport back ahead of time since the last scheduled ferry leaves promptly at 18:30. Accommodation is available on Koh Trong -- there are two homestays and one more upmarket resort.

Many other towns and villages make pleasant day trips from Kratie. Among them is Chhlong, about an hour and a half south by motorbike. A morning trip with a motodop should cost you about $13. The town itself was both once a bustling port for French and Chinese traders, and the beautiful, decaying colonial architecture lining the riverfront attests to this. There's also a famous stilted home with 100 stilts. It isn't particularly impressive but the family who lives there is welcoming and likes to share stories from the "Pol Pot time". Villagers were evicted from the town during the Khmer Rouge's rule, and they occupied most of the town's buildings.

Inside Le Relais Hotel on the edge of town is a former prison where skulls of Khmer Rouge detainees remain. There's not much here, although if you're interested in Cambodian history and have a driver who doesn't mind facilitating conversation with the locals it can be a very worthwhile sidetrip. There's also a hilltop pagoda that is surrounded by war-era pillboxes and a police base that are both work a look on your way out of town.

Aside from the dolphins, there's ample opportunity for boat trips, village walks and general exploring. Many of the guesthouses in Kratie have more information on things to see and do in the area. In our experience, the area surrounding Kratie is particularly lush, with beautiful stilted homes, and some of the friendliest people we've met throughout Cambodia.

A few NGOs organise home stays in several of these villages as well as in Koh Trong -- they can be contacted through their web sites if you plan ahead, and the Cambodian Rural Development Team has a small kiosk on the grounds of Le Bungalow in Kratie town.

Cambodian Rural Development Team: (023) 357 230 ; www.crdt.org.kh ; No. 695 Street 2, Kratie
Cambodia Community Development: (012) 674 800 ; info @ crdt.org.kh (for island homestays).

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Kep travel guide, Cambodia

Cambodia's Kep is a former playground of the French and Cambodian elite, with the King Father's crumbling mansions sitting atop the hill, a testament to the country's cultural zenith in the 1960s. It takes some imagination to conjure this heyday from the weekday peace and laidback ambiance, but the revival of a white sand beach and a throng of holidaying Khmers at weekends hark back to Kep's popular past.

Kep is staging a slow but steady comeback. Over several years, many of the beachside plots, which hosted nothing but ruined villas and tangled jungle for decades, have been snapped up by foreign royalty, merchant bankers, expatriates and wealthy Khmers. While visiting the town's hotels, it's quickly apparent that it wants to be more upscale and subdued than Sihanoukville and even Kampot. Much of the accommodation is resort-style bungalow places, although you can find a bed for less than $10 a night at more budget-minded establishments. Refreshingly, development here for the most part seems slow, careful, and planned. A 20-year masterplan emphasises preserving the environment and limiting development, particularly along the beachfront.

New accommodation options and improving services for visitors may be signs of the changes to come, but much stays the same. Among Khmers, Kep remains best known for its fresh crab, and on weekends hordes of locals descend to eat all the crab they can get their hands on. For Phnom Penh based expats Kep remains an ideal weekend getaway.

Much of Kep maintains its ghost-town ambiance: although things feel bustling enough by the bus station area above the beach, and the crab market up the hill at the western end, there's a big stretch of nothing much happening until you reach the town 'proper' with the market and Koh Tonsay pier. You may feel that you blinked and missed something, but if you spotted the white naked woman statue, the welcoming crab and the mini Independence Monument, you likely didn't.

Kep's popularity is based on taking it easy rather than a long list of available activities. The imported white sand beach is only a kilometre long, but the sea is perfect for a float in a car-tyre or a potter around in a sailboat. The sunsets across the bay to Bokor National Park are stunning and this is a great place for a lazy spell in a hammock. Nature lovers can take relatively easy treks in the national park, or get up close and personal at the Butterfly Farm and Oceanarium.

The islands off Kep are well worth visiting and we've got a soft spot for Koh Tonsay, better known as Rabbit Island. It's easily visited by boat from Kep on a day trip, or rudimentary accommodation is available should you want to overnight there.

The main island you can see offshore is Vietnam's Phu Quoc Island, which is totally off-limits via Kep (though it can be reached from both Ha Tien and

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Kampot travel guide, Cambodia

Sleepy Kampot sits on the east bank of the Kampot River and enjoys spectacular views across to Bokor and Elephant Mountains, which make up the sizeable Bokor National Park. The town was once a trading centre and until the establishment of a deep sea port at Sihanoukville in the 1950s, Kampot was Cambodia's primary port. A smattering of small fishing boats can still be seen unloading every morning a short walk south of the main town on the dirt road parallel to the river. Given Kampot's proximity to the Vietnamese border, fish often isn't the only catch being unloaded, with smuggling -- particularly of cigarettes -- a handy extra earner for the fishermen.

Today, Kampot is best known for its pepper, which is truly excellent. Pepper plantations as well as a few low-key sites can be visited from town, which also forms an ideal base for trips up to jungle-clad Bokor, a highlight of any visit to the Cambodian coast. Atop Bokor are a church and a casino, remnants from Cambodia's French colonial period. Today they're both in a decrepit state -- the Khmer Rouge and Vietnamese spent a long stretch shooting at each other here, with one team in the casino and the other in the church. Spoiling the misty spookiness is a new casino development, but the road built to access it at least means you no longer have a tough trek to the top.

Kampot is both somnolent and pretty, in a rundown kind of way. Plenty of villas and old shopfront trading houses, especially along the river road, make it a pleasant area to wander through -- thankfully Kampot hasn't lost too many of its older buildings to the glass and brass brigade. Given time and sufficient interest from travellers, many of these buildings will hopefully be retained. The Old Market, long a derelict landmark, has recently been revitalised with shops and eateries and rumours abound about plans for the empty fish market on the riverfront.

Along with its relaxed ambience comes an excellent selection of places to stay, from cheap backpacker-orientated guesthouses through to some fine flashpacker and midrange hotels. Kampot also boasts plenty of decent places to enjoy Cambodian and Western food and just hang out.

Within town, activities include taking a walk over the once-bombed but now repaired river bridge for a view of the town, enjoying a sunset boat cruise up the Kampot River or just hiring a bicycle and meandering about. You also, of course, need to enjoy at least one sunset over Bokor by the river with a drink in hand. Further afield are some caves just off the road to Kep, the 'Secret Lake', some salt fields and a small waterfall.

A growing number of people are also attracted to Kampot to spend some time with a volunteer project. Choose from a range of options, from short term through to longer-term projects working with disadvantaged groups. Blissful Guesthouse and Epic Arts Cafe are two good places to start with enquiries.

One of Kampot's less favourable aspects is the large number of noisy dogs, which have the freedom of the streets after dark. Although unlikely to bite, their bark is bad enough. If ignored, they will let you pass the properties they are protecting. Take a torch if you're out in the evening, as street lighting hasn't really become popular yet.

It's also worth noting that although the town is sporting sparkling new signage, most locals don't know the street numbers -- the signs are apparently for the benefit of a certain Google car. Most navigation is still done by roundabouts and bridges. Pick up a copy of the excellent Kampot Survival Guide for a town map and some very tongue-in-cheek advice.

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Koh Rong travel guide, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Koh Rong is quite possibly that cliched island paradise you've been looking for, boasting pristine white beaches, turquoise water and limited development on most of the island. For years the island was almost completely undeveloped save for a diving outfit and a few bungalows, though that's changing, in particular on the southern patch Koh Touch.

Serviced by the fast boat from Sihanoukville as the fourth stop, Koh Touch is a sandy guesthouse-packed stretch that has earned Koh Rong a reputation as a party island. All the beaches aside from Koh Touch however are undeserving of this label as they're the kind of places where the lights go out when the sun goes down and the sounds of nature, rather than music, will lull you to sleep. Despite many a developer having their beady eyes on the 78-square-kilometre island, the rapid development of late is mostly limited to basic bungalows and cheap guesthouses in Koh Touch, so it remains easy to find a quiet refuge elsewhere on the island.

The island is truly gorgeous. So gorgeous in fact that a production company has set up a permanent base at Soksan Base Camp hotel, on Soksan Beach, making the most of the deserted beaches and exceedingly beautiful waters for filming all sorts of movies and programmes, including reality TV show Survivor. The swish property occasionally opens to outside guests in-between production runs.

Taxi!

The island boasts seven bays, all teeming with marine life, making for great snorkelling and diving. The ultra-high end millionaires' hang-out Song Saa Resort is to the north of the island, but you can save your cash and get the same paradise views at a fraction of the cost elsewhere. There's enough to keep even the most active visitor busy, with diving, snorkelling, mountain biking, trekking, kayaks and motorbike treks, and plenty of sand, sun and sea for those with more relaxed tastes.

Chill out.

Koh Rong has 43 kilometres of beaches, but the majority of bars and accommodation is on the southeast, by Koh Touch village. There's barely a patch along the bright white sand without a bungalow being constructed. Here music blares out till the early hours where sleeping in the tightly packed accommodation close to the pier is usually a wasted effort -- the main generator turns off at 02:30 but that doesn't stop one bar, Mango, which has its own so it can pump on till 05:30.

There's a couple of basic minimarts, laundry services and a choice of eating, but no ATMs or internet cafes -- though a scattering of properties now offer free WiFi. The clientele closest to the village are mostly backpackers and divers who have come to enjoy the nightlife, with expats and couples preferring more seclusion further along the beach at quieter, more spread out accommodation.

Beaches can get very busy at times.

The next largest cluster of accommodation is on Sok San, a sleepy village that's a world away from Koh Touch with regular direct slow boats from Sihanoukville and a fast boat primarily serving the production company based there, with an irregular schedule accordingly. Family-run over-water stilted bungalows and basic beach huts are the order of the day here, with multiple new bungalows springing up during our October 2014 visit.

Soksan Base Camp is based at the end of the village with a whopping 90 new bungalows -- adding to the existing 54 -- being constructed at the end of 2014. This is to accommodate more production crew and to be able to open it up more to tourists -- currently there are only very narrow windows during filming breaks when they accept bookings online, usually in low season. With 24-hour power, high-speed internet and air-con, prices are steep for these smart wooden bungalows but there's nowhere else that really competes.

Pesky cloud.

A handful of other one-off resorts are set around the island at the northeast and southwest and these arrange their own slow boats from Sihanoukville; it's a two-three hour journey that's absolutely worth it if you're looking for real peace and isolation.

The Cambodian government has sold Koh Rong to an investment group based in Cambodia, which has plans to build an airport and "ecological" resort. There's currently little sign of development though apart from a rough and ready road which connects some parts of the island, and the WiFi and mobile phone signals which now service most of the accommodation. If you must make that call, Hello Axiata and Metfone seem to get the strongest signals, particularly on Koh Touch beach.

Waterfall bound.

The interior of the island is largely undeveloped and travelling between beaches requires trekking or a boat; the latter is relatively expensive. One of the most beautiful beaches, north of Koh Touch, is known as Long Set beach, after the farmer who lives there growing cashews, coconuts and mangoes. Thanks to the views, it's thought it will be the first one to be developed. Around the point to the west of Koh Touch, the white coral sand bay known as Seven-Kilometre beach, with Sok San village at one end, is also a potential development site.

Even the bathrooms are memorable.

So far the development group has left the bungalows alone and they appear safe for the time being. The operations pay rent and have signed agreements saying they will leave whenever they are ordered to.
So if you want to take advantage of Koh Rong's perfect beaches, diving, snorkelling and phosphorescent night swimming (subject to availability), go now.

Orientation
Rooms are highly sought after in high season, and it's better to book before you go, or arrive on the early ferry to catch rooms at Koh Touch beach. Be aware that the island does not have mains electricity and resorts rely on generators for power -- you'll get the most power supply at Koh Touch including at night, though not 24/7. Water is also a precious commodity, and most bathrooms employ an economical bucket flush system.

Take your pick at Angkor Chom.

One of the problems of deserted beaches is that undisturbed sand can be the perfect habitat for sand flies. These small black flies like to bite, and leave itchy red marks that can irritate for days. The best approach is prevention so bring along some good strong repellant with DEET and apply it first thing in the morning as well as after the sun goes down.

While you're enjoying the turquoise waters, don't forget to look for sea urchins or sea eggs underfoot. The spines are painful if they embed in your sole and won't pull out easily. However, the discomfort will wear off in a couple of days and these particular creatures are not dangerous.

The blue just goes and goes.

Being a small, mostly uninhabited island, medical help is very limited. For anything halfway serious, you'll need to return to Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh. Bring some supplies of iodine and plasters with you, and take care of yourself!

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Battambang travel guide, Cambodia

Battambang province lies in the far western region of Cambodia; bounded to the west by Thailand, the south by the Cardamom Mountains, the east by the Tonle Sap Lake and Pursat, and to the north by Banteay Meanchey province. The landscape, often picturesque and highly varied in this large province, morphs from vast marshes and wetlands around the lake's rim into extensive rice paddies dotted with limestone outcrops and then rolling orchard-blanketed hills around the Pailin enclave, before finishing with rugged forest-clad slopes abutting the southern mountain ranges. Battambang is home to the kingdom's best farming land and the provincial capital was traditionally a wealthy trading town as well as being the second largest city of the kingdom.

'Bourgeois' Battambang with its large ethnic Chinese population suffered greatly during the Khmer Rouge era. With nearby Pailin being one of the last redoubts of anti-government forces during the war of the 1980s and '90s, it also later became the centre of UN peace-keeping operations. Today the town is flourishing again due to its agricultural riches and relatively good communications and transport infrastructure; Khmer expats and investment are returning to the region.

Tourism-wise, the town was always a rather off the beaten track destination -- known mostly for being the end of a scenic boat ride from Siem Reap and its famous 'bamboo railway' -- but these days it's increasingly appearing in traveller tour plans, with easy access to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Thailand. The tourism infrastructure is developing fast.

There are plenty of things to see and do in and around town, apart from just admiring the idyllic countryside, with no shortage of great accommodation and food and drink options. The town still remains quiet and far more traditional than the bustling capital or tourism hotspots of Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, so it makes for a wonderfully contrasting destination to complete your Cambodia itinerary.

One oddity of Battambang province is the rain gambling. Although it does happen all over Cambodia, this is the epicentre of the phenomenon. Fortunes are won and lost betting how much rain will fall at a given place at a given time. When in the capital, keep an eye out for people clustered on the roofs of the buildings overlooking the central bus station. Clutching walkie-talkies, they're communicating with both their rain-spotters, who are scattered across the surrounds monitoring the clouds, and their bookies at Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk. The bookies can be a bit shy about having their photo taken, but they're not too worried if you're just there to check it out.

Battambang is Khmer for "disappearing stick", referring to a legend about a cowherd named Ta Dambong who found a magic stick and used it to usurp the then-king. The king's son ran off to the woods and became a monk. In the meantime, Ta Dambong had a dream that a holy man on a white horse would vanquish him, so he decided it would be a good idea to have all the holy men rounded up and put to death. When the prince heard he was required to go into town, a hermit came up and gave him a white horse. When the prince got on the horse he found it could fly. When he flew into town, Ta Dambong realised his dream was coming true so he threw his magic stick at the prince and did a runner. Neither he nor the magic stick was ever seen again.

Orientation
The city itself is split into two by the Sangkar River with the compact central area and main market situated on the left bank. The series of narrow parallel streets numbered imaginatively 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3 are home to an increasing number of cafes, bars and restaurants. This is where you'll find most of the old Chinese shophouses and a smattering of French colonial-style buildings as well.

Battambang was an important province in the Angkor period so several temple ruins and historical sites can be found within a 30 kilometre radius of town, providing convenient day trip opportunities.

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Sihanoukville travel guide, Cambodia

Sihanoukville is Cambodia's premier beach location, a peninsula ringed by pretty whiteish-sand beaches and surrounded by a smattering of tiny islands. Debate rages over whether its beaches will ever seriously rival those that lure the hordes to neighbouring Thailand, but given international tourism's insatiable appetite for new places, we think they will ... eventually ... one day ... maybe; at least, the international developers who have snapped up many of the islands on long-term leases are hoping so.

Cambodia's youngest city, Sihanoukville town sprang to life in 1955 when a construction team arrived at what was then known as Kompong Som to begin work on Cambodia's first (and only) deep water port. When the port was finished in 1960 the area was renamed Sihanoukville (in honour of then King Sihanouk) but many Cambodians continue to refer to it as Kompong Som.

The Khmer Rouge kept Sihanoukville largely off-limits to all but the most intrepid travellers for years. But today, with a good road from Phnom Penh and an on-again, off-again airport where regular flights may one day become a reality, Sihanoukville is drawing a steady stream of backpackers along with expatriates down from Phnom Penh for lazy weekends.

The first time we visited Sihanoukville we loved it, the second time less so; each time after that less so again, as its seediness started to outshine the prettiness. Despite its newfound popularity, the town has a somewhat abandoned feel to it, amplified by the number of half-built or deserted plots of land marked out by high and imposing fences — plots often "owned" by businesspeople with sometimes dubious land titles and an eye for a fast buck.

And though it's a beach town, it's not the most relaxing place. Endless construction projects in all parts of the town make sleeping in a luxury and time spent on many of the beaches is punctuated by repeated requests from street children and local vendors to buy bracelets, make donations or have massages.

Ochheuteal beach, Sihanoukville's most popular, has a bit of a caravan-park feel to it and the motodops here are among the most dodgy in Cambodia. Over the last few years, Thailand has slowly tightened its visa regulations and it seems there's been a commensurate influx to Sihanoukville of crusty, sex-tourist types who have certainly contributed to the rising number of dodgy bars. Sihanoukville also has a long-running problem with foreign and local paedophiles.

It isn't all bad news though. Sihanoukville's beaches are sprawling and pretty, though perhaps not as postcard-perfect as many of Thailand's. The sand is generally grainier and more yellow-grey in colour and many are lined with ramshackle food vendors. On weekends, Khmer and barang hordes converge particularly on Ochheuteal, and accommodation prices rise accordingly. It's a fun place, and the unusual mix of Khmers and barang relaxing side-by-side is something you don't see in Thailand, nor in fact in the rest of Cambodia, that often.

If you're looking for white sand beaches and turquoise waters, you'll have to head offshore to one of the many islands around Sihanoukville.

The province is also home to Ream National Park, which is well worth a visit.

If you're arriving in Sihanoukville by bus or share-taxi from Phnom Penh, you'll arrive in Sihanoukville town, from where Ochheuteal Beach, Independence Beach, Victory Hill & Beach and Sokha Beach and much more are but a motodop ride away.

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Phnom Penh travel guide, Cambodia

One of the better preserved French relics in Southeast Asia, the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh has a lot more to offer travellers than a quick, depressing swing through Tuol Sleng and a run out to the Killing Fields.

Cambodia's history stretches far back beyond the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s. As far as Phnom Penh goes, legend has it that its beginnings stretch back to the late 14th century, when an old woman named Penh found a tree with a handful of Buddha images lodged in one of its nooks. She retrieved the images and had a hill (phnom) built to house them: Penh's Hill, or Phnom Penh, was born.

Established at the crossroads of the Bassac, Tonle and Mekong Rivers, Phnom Penh remained little more than a large village and didn't become the permanent capital until the late 19th century during the reign of King Norodom I. On April 17, 1864 Norodom agreed to make Cambodia a French protectorate in an attempt to keep the bellicose Vietnamese and Siamese at bay. In the years following, the construction of Phnom Penh proper began. Interestingly, 111 years to the day after King Norodom I signed his first treaty with the French, the Khmer Rouge entered, took control and totally emptied Phnom Penh.

By the time Cambodia became a part of French Indochina in 1884, Phnom Penh had developed into a sizeable, largely French-designed city, and by the 1920s it was considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Southeast Asia, earning it the moniker Pearl of Asia.

A few decades of optimism -- some overseen by then King Norodom Sihanouk, a charismatic arts-loving playboy -- were finally interrupted by war. Historically Cambodia had been a battleground between the Thais and the Vietnamese, but through the late 1960s and early 1970s, Cambodian fought Cambodian as a brutal civil war engulfed the country. By the time the Khmer Rouge took power in 1975 and evacuated the city, Phnom Penh became a ghost town, and it was but a shadow of itself when the Khmer Rouge were finally evicted by a Vietnamese invasion in 1978-79.

People trickled back to Phnom Penh and the city slowly returned to life. However, it wasn't until the 1990s when UN-sponsored elections took place (accompanied by a slew of aid) that the city really began to develop anew. The new century has seen considerable financial investment from China and South Korea and an onslaught of new construction projects have resulted in many of Phnom Penh's French relics as well as its unique 1950s and 1960s architecture falling to the wrecking ball, only to be replaced by characterless glass and brass affairs. The result is a hodge-podge of stunning French colonial buildings and concrete egg-carton eyesores.

And as the money has flowed, so have the people. The once sleepy streets are developing into a chaotic mess of motorcycles, cars, minibuses, ox carts and remorques battling for space. Urban migration continues apace and it's not unusual to see entire families camped out on footpaths. Poverty is endemic and one not well addressed at all by the country's largely dysfunctional government, despite Prime Minister Hun Sen long being a darling of the international aid community.

Phnom Penh and Cambodian history is well documented at the National Museum, S-21 and the Killing Fields. Other attractions include the Royal Palace, temples, markets and boat tours and a bountiful supply of excellent cafes and restaurants for gourmands, bars for night owls and spas for those who need to unwind. Phnom Penh is a charming spot, so don't make the mistake of allowing just a day or two here.

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Siem Reap travel guide, Cambodia

Set in northwest Cambodia, Siem Reap is best known for being home to the incredible Angkor ruins, a sprawling World Heritage-listed complex of ancient temples with the magnificent Angkor Wat as the focal point.

While the Angkor park is surely one of the globe's most amazing historical sites, Siem Reap province is also home to an array of other ruins, such as Beng Mealea, Bantaey Srei, and the holy mountain Phnom Kulen. So if ancient temple ruins are your thing, this province -- an expansive piece of mostly flat land, covered in rice fields and brush -- must be explored fully. It runs along the north shore of the Tonle Sap, Cambodia's "Great Lake", and north to Oddar Meanchey province, where Pol Pot met his end. Few visitors get around to the fringes, even though they are becoming increasingly accessible after many improvements to Cambodia's roads.

The provincial capital of Siem Reap is also a transportation hub, with many people coming through here en route to Phnom Penh, Poipet (the northwest border crossing to Thailand) or by bus or boat to Battambang. And more and more people are now using it as a base from which to visit the renowned Preah Vihear temple.

Siem Reap's international airport now takes in more tourists daily than the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh. Mass tourism has well and truly arrived to this part of Cambodia and is expected to triple between 2010 and 2015.

The town itself is situated three kilometres south of the temple park, and has exploded from a relatively small backwater town to the fastest growing settlement in the nation. Annually, two million visitors now travel through the small city to see the adjacent Angkor ruins. This tourism hub has three PGA-rated golf courses, the presence of international hotels such as Sofitel, Raffles, Aman and Le Meridien, and an airport with 36 international and domestic flights arriving daily. Developers scramble to build facilities that complement the impressiveness of Angkor, described by Henri Mahout, the Frenchman who re-alerted the West to it in 1860, as "a rival to that of Solomon and erected by some ancient Michelangelo... grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome."

The chaotic growth has not always had the best results and some would argue it has all happened far too quickly, without any planning or considerations of sustainability. For example, the town has been experiencing serious issues with water access for a number of years now, driving businesses to distraction. No matter what your opinion of that, Siem Reap is booming and is set to remain a key stop for travellers to Southeast Asia for years to come.

Straddling the Siem Reap River which flows from Phnom Kulen, the town itself is home to a couple of minor sites of interest, some reasonable shopping and hundreds of guesthouses and restaurants. It is the best base from which to launch your visits of Angkor and the surrounding area and the town offers a full range of accommodation options, from $4 flophouses to $3,000-plus a night luxury hotels.

Most tourists tend to visit the ruins in the morning and late afternoon, taking a break back in town during the middle of the day when the heat and poor light detract from the temples. The easiest way to visit is to hire a tuk tuk or motodop in the morning for a $10 to $15 flat rate, although you can also see the temples by bicycle (on average $2 per day), bus, car, helicopter, microlite and even hot-air balloon.

Back in Siem Reap, visitors tend to spend their time lying around their guesthouse and splashing in a pool if they're lucky, sipping or supping in one of the town's many stylish (and some not-so-stylish) bars and restaurants, seeing the minor sites, visiting nearby villages and shopping. Although it seems like a new hotel opens every month, the impact on prices has been minimal and there has been little variation in the last few years. During low season, it is possible to bargain a little, depending on the month. This will rarely work in July and August though, when visitors numbers spike.

Spas are springing up to tend to ruin-weary legs and dust-encrusted faces, some sumptuous, and many mid-range ones which can be just as good. Almost every hotel has a contract with a local spa to provide in-room massage, while most high-end hotels have separate spa facilities.

Even those with a minimal interest in the ruins will easily be occupied for a couple of days, while if exploring tree-shrouded hidden crevices and piles of rocks are your thing, you could end up spending a month here.

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Chaung Tha Beach travel guide, Burma

Chaung Tha Beach, a quiet Bay of Bengal coastal beach town, is a long stretch of sand that's home to some of Burma’s most affordable beachfront accommodation. It's popular with weekend beach goers from Yangon with a slow but steady flow of Western travellers. The vast shoreline provides plenty of refuge, perfect both for couples seeking a peaceful romantic getaway as well as for solo travellers looking to unwind quietly. If it's a party beach that you're after then this isn't your place; however, if you're looking for the kind of venue that'll allow you to read through the stack of books that's been weighing your backpack down, or clear off your e-book to-read list so you have an excuse to download more, then this is a beach for you.

Chaung Tha has a range of accommodation options, ranging from simple no-frill hotels across the road from the beach to high-end luxurious beach resorts with swimming pools, fancy restaurants and on-site spas. However, in general Chaung Tha is cheaper than nearby Ngwe Saung Beach. Additionally, the resorts are much closer to one another, making it easier to interact with locals and other travellers. Evening beach football matches are common, with locals more than happy to let foreign travellers join in.

Because of its natural beauty and proximity to Yangon, Chaung Tha has enormous potential to become one of Burma's major tourist destinations. At the moment, however, the town is very much underdeveloped. Footpaths are in bad shape and there's no electricity; the resorts must rely on power generators at night. The situation appears to be changing and many of the town's hotels are expanding or have plans to add additional rooms.

The beach is accessible via bus from Yangon and is a five- to six-hour ride. Be warned, though, that the second half of the journey consists of sharp twists and turns through some of the steepest groups of rolling hills in the Ayeyarwady Delta. Motion sickness pills are available at the bus station.

Orientation
Chaung Thar Road runs parallel with Chaung Tha Beach. The majority of the hotels and bungalows are beachside and across the road you'll find several restaurants, simple convenience stores and souvenir shops. A small town and market area is near the southern end of the beach and is an easy 10-15 minute walk from any of the resorts. The going rate for a motorcycle taxi anywhere in town is 500 kyat per ride.

There are no ATMs in Chaung Tha Beach so bring enough cash with you. Several of the guesthouses in town offer free WiFi. If you're already in town and internet access is essential, it may not be a bad idea to test the guesthouse's WiFi before you agree to book the room. The restaurant located inside of the Shwe Hin Tha Hotel offers reliable WiFi to both hotel and restaurant guests.

The shops across from the Golden Beach Hotel sell umbrellas (a necessity during rainy season) for 2,000 kyat. 'Chaung Tha Beach' souvenir T-shirts are also available for just 1,500 kyat. In that area you'll also find a very basic pharmacy selling a small selection of medicine and toiletries.

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